USA July 2008

A spare evening in New York and maybe you'd like to visit Madison Square Garden .

OK Womens MBA is not quite Frazier v Ali but it takes place at the same venue.

New York Liberty 69 Los Angeles Sparks 68.

This is razzamatazz with some sport.

Be prepared for various fan participation games , many music interludes and some basketball.

Its not my favourite sport but for a couple of hours , in a historic setting, it was diverting enough.

Both teams had some tall, some short , most fairly heavy and some light.

No. 4, Janel McCarville at 205 lbs was one of the larger girls and she tended to impose herself.

And the culmination , a very prolonged last minute , with loads of timeouts did generate some atmosphere amongst the near 13,000 . New York just held on for a one point victory. Maybe they'll make the playoffs.

Across the country to Alameda near Oakland and over the Bay Bridge, with many others, for a Saturday early evening baseball game.

San Francisco Giants v Arizona Diamondbacks (3-5) at AT & T Park

Not as cold as the old Candlestick Park but cooler than New York with the breeze coming off the Bay.

A sizeable crowd came to see two top pitchers battle for supremacy.

The Giants young Tim Lincecum pitched a best ever 13 strikeouts but Webb was the winner.

The relieving pitchers couldn't continue Lincecum's work and the Dbacks ran in 3 in the 8th to seal the win. They maintained their lead at the top of the American West.

The next day in Santa Clara (University) at Buck Shaw Stadium , the San Jose Earthquakes drew 1-1 with New York in the MLS. Not too much help for either team who are bottom of their respective leagues.

Darren Huckerby scored his first goal for San Jose - an easy tap-in following a Sealey shot.

Generally San Jose dominated the first whilst New York played better in the second - Juan Pablo Angel was moderate for the visitors. Over 9,000 watched , seated on wooden 'bleachers'. They do plan to build a soccer-specific stadium within the next 3 years.

Next on to Salt Lake City.

Yes its a little like 'Invasion of the body snatchers meets the Stepford Wives' with all those guys in suits and in temperatures in the high nineties.

Starbucks - whats that ?

But there is money around and plenty of construction going on - not least around downtown. Where the Temple area is very impressive with its clean lines and pristine, manicured flower beds.

Real Salt Lake 2 Toronto 1

Currently playing at the Rice Eccles stadium - which means you watch the game played across the prominent American Football markings and as is typical a small crowd (12,000) had plenty of space in a very large ground.

RSL lead their league and they consolidated - just about - taking the lead then being pegged back later in 2nd and seeing Findley sweep in the winner. Familiar names amongst the Toronto team included Carl Robinson, Laurent Robert and Rohan Ricketts.

The next evening your correspondent saw the Bees , the local Pacific League baseball team, beat New Orleans 11-6 . Though the surrounding area is not as salubrious as downtown the ballpark is pleasant with grassy picnic areas for the families.

The Bees score 4 in the 4th, the Zephyrs 6 in the 6th but the home team respond with 5 and later 2 more to win easily enough. Some 6,000 watched.

Via Phoenix to Oklahoma City using South West airlines.

Where its very quiet.

The National Monument (to the bomb victims) is well laid out and effective.

In Bricktown there is some activity amongst the bars and restaurants as the Redhawks , again in the Pacific League lose to the Las Vegas 51's (3-5)

Not many walked back home from the ballpark - in fact probably only me as everywhere was deserted - tumbleweed (almost) blew around the streets. As the locals would have said - 'you walked !?'

To get from Oklahoma City to Fort Worth it is possible to take the train known as the Heartland Flyer.

This is more Heartland than flier.

Its a medium pace trundle through Oklahoma into Texas and should have taken around 4 hours but took an hour longer due to freight train problems on the track. Sights along the way - some rivers and a bank 'robbed' by Bonnie & Clyde (and used in the film)

Its an alternative to driving though you clearly wouldn't want to choose this option very often.

Near to Fort Worth is Arlington and the home of the Texas Rangers (and in the next year or so the Dallas Cowboys)

Deep in the heart of Texas...

Texas Rangers 5 Seattle Mariners 8

An attractive looking ballpark with some character.

Though not too many turned out for this one (17,000) as the Rangers struggled. The Mariners scored regularly building up a decent lead and it was only in the last two innings that the Rangers got going. They had men on bases at the end but couldn't secure the comeback.

It takes over 4 hours to drive down I-45 South to Houston and past that impressive downtown skyline.

Houston Astros 7 New York Mets 3

The high flying Mets were out-hit by the Astros who smashed four home runs including a grand slam by pinch hitter Loretta.

Fortunately the Minute Maid ballpark is (generally) air conditioned to alleviate the Southern Texas heat - it has some interesting quirks - the 'home run pump' and the train that moves up and down as the runs go in.

A substantial crowd (41,000) on this Friday night enjoyed the home win over the big city team.

It was even at 3-3 until the 8th when Loretta secured the victory.

Nearby the Houston Space Center provides a diverting couple of hours - see Mission control, the Saturn V rocket and other space equipment amongst a tour of the complex. The kids get to play the numerous games in the exhibition centre.

In the evening at Robertson stadium the MLS team Houston Dynamo took on Columbus Crew.

Nearby this University ground the neighbourhood is not the best but safe enough - in a car.

Houston Dynamo 2 Columbus Crew 0

Houston didn't really have much of a problem as Columbus crashed and burned.

A predominently orange clad crowd was quite lively, including some pseudo Argentinian flags/chanting. They saw an Argentinian (Schelotto) star for the losers being generally being a class above the rest. But the Crew defence weakened and Houston took their chances.

Get up early and you can make the South West flight , via Las Vegas to Oakland.

Where LA Galaxy , including David Beckham and Landon Donovan , are the opposition for San Jose.

San Jose Earthquakes 3 LA Galaxy 2 at the Oakland Coliseum.

This was the best game of the four football games seen during this trip.

Bottom team San Jose partly inspired by Darren Huckerby led two nil , including a neat finish by the winger. LA pegged one back before the break with a trademark Becks cross for Donovan to head in.

LA showed more in the 2nd , equalised and looked favoured as San Jose tired but in a dramatic ending Cochrane knocked in the winner , with Huckerby involved again.

Ruud Gullitt was pleased with his team's effort despite the loss and Frank Yallop (of San Jose) happy though realistic.

This was to be Gullitt's last game in charge of LA.

26,000 came to see the Becks and co.

Some stayed on to see the players depart , others played football in the car park.

I strolled back to the Quality Inn and later had some Chinese food.

or more pics see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/62673323

Norway July 2008

To Bergen and Bryggen, a world heritage site, very pleasant in the sunshine - the old wooden buildings drawing in the tourists and some russian sailors. For food the nearby fish market provides excellent cod & chips.

However at £10 for a beer one things for sure Norway is not a major venue for stag parties - if you go its easy to break your 'fiscal rules'.

Lov-Ham 0 Sogndal 1

Some 10km south in Fyllingsdalen, on a new artifical pitch, the home side celebrated by allowing the crowd in free with cakes an option. Some 900 odd were hungry enough to attend despite the ever-present rain onto an open 'stadium'.
They saw an average game in which Lov-Ham started ok but conceded a goal from a badly defended throw-in, scored by Kanu (no relation?)
Sogndal should have got a second as Kader raced away but one was enough.

A small number of Sogndal fans travelled and brought a couple of very large flags whereas the locals mainly brought their babies.

Bergen to Stavanger is 190 km but it takes around 5 hours by car via 2 ferries and many tunnels and bridges .

The drive is relaxing enough especially given the scenery and the 60-80km speed limits.

Norway is a big country with small speed limits and many tolls.

Even the 30km or so between Stavanger and Bryne has 3 tolls.

Bryne 5 Moss 5

After yesterdays moderate fare this was a veritable goalfest of entertainment.

Played in the old style Bryne stadium with a main stand very reminiscent of the old West stand at Leyton Orient, with a track around and open ends with an open terrace opposite.

And a decent crowd of nearly 2000 attended including some Bryne ultras with plenty of flare and flags.
For this neutral this was a terrific game although the locals probably felt a bit down after Moss scored two in the last few minutes.
The scoring included 4 goals from the Moss no.10 (Kvalheim) who was often left in too much space and there were loads of chances in a game played on a fine pitch (probably helped by the abundant rain)


for more pictures see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/57840212

Ireland July 2008

Galway Utd 1 Sligo Rovers 1 in the Eircom Premier.

Cold and breezy Terryland Park , near the river Shannon, hosted this Connacht derby.

Both sets of fans had their large flags including one (almost obligatory ?) image of Che.

Galway needed at least a point being bottom of the league and with financial problems.

They scored first but soon after allowed a cross to find defender Almeida who got the equaliser. Sligo probably shaded the game , helped by Galway having a man sent off later in the game.

In the town centre tourists (and locals) enjoy the Irish atmosphere and hospitality amongst the jugglers , bars and restaurants.

Cobh Ramblers 0 St Patricks Athletic 1

Cobh, also in need of points, played one up front and let St Pats pass the ball around endlessly.

Eventually Pats made the possession count , from Guy's mis-header debutant O'Brien scored easily enough. They maintained their position as league leaders.

It's not difficult to associate Cobh ('Cove') with the sea - bars are named after the Lusitania, Mauretania and Titanic. Many of those who died when the Lusitania was torpedoed are buried there. And Cobh, or Queenstown as it was then, was the last stop on the maiden (and only) voyage of the Titanic.

The harbour , reckoned to be the 2nd largest in the world , is pleasant enough in the sunshine as you watch the ships come in whilst reading the Sunday papers.

for more pics see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/56821762

Latvia June 2008

Latvia - Riga (on the way home from the Euros)

Obviously a strong Soviet influence but the language (Germanic ) is at least readable, if not understandable.

The city has a pleasant centre though not as attractive as Tallinn.

You see trams, graffitti, girls , nice restaurants, some stag groups and a decent selection of museums (especially the Occupation Museum - Latvia has had its share)

Skonto Riga vs Vindava at the Skonto stadium in central Riga.

A 3-0 win for the home side before 100 people , just the main stand open - the standard of play is OK but its all very low key.
It was easy enough for Skonto - their handful of ultras were happy.

The other game is a 2nd level match between Metta LU Riga (Univ of Riga team) vs Zibens Zemessardze (0-3) played on an artficial training type pitch.
A very small 'stand' only - c. 30 around as the students lose.

A pleasant enough Latvian diversion in reasonable weather (some light rain)

No Starbucks but 'Double Coffee' everywhere.

for more pics see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/54140573

Euros June 2008

1. Russia v Greece in Salzburg

A generally deserved victory by the Russians (should it have been England ?)
The Greeks were very limited, creating little despite having three men in attack. A goalie error decided the match though it seemed like it was only a matter of time before the Russians scored.

As was noticeable in all these games there were plenty of fans of both teams and seemingly few neutrals. This obviously produced a good atmosphere but anybody without a ticket could expect to pay big bucks - up to 500 euros. This could mean collecting hundreds of glasses at a return deposit of one euro per time to get back the cost.


To Salzburg the day after the game - a very pleasant historic centre with some Russians and a few Greeks around.

In the central area is the very impressive medium-size Salzburg museum full of the latest technology and providing superb presentations.

2. Croatia v Poland (1-0) in Klagenfurt

Red & white everywhere, except for the black-clad Croatian 'ultras' who provide a backdrop as in a System of a Down video.

Its hard to tell who had the most support (probably Croatia)
Sitting with Poland fans i had to feel for them - a limited team even against a mainly 'reserve' Croat side still couldn't get too close.

After his kidney transplant it was a great moment for Ivan Klasnic to score.

Both sets of fans certainly seem to rub along ok and mixed together in different areas of the stadium as well as outside.

3. Russia v Sweden (2-0)

Masses of yellow at one end and red/white/blue at the other in the best stadium for atmosphere of the four i visited.
The Russians were a revelationn - attacking from the start with star man Arshavin at the helm.

Whereas the Swedes were much too predictable & slow, with Ibrahimovic & Larsson ineffective.

Could Russia be the new Greece. ?


4. Germany 3 Portugal 2


The first of the Quarter Finals , in Basel.
I thought Portugal would do better but who can bet against the Germans - they showed power, strength and no little skill in getting two goals up , Portugal get one back but Ballack, with a push gets them 2 goals clear.

The stadium didnt 'work' so well especially with the UEFA style arrangements (cordons restricted walking around outside) making it a very inconvenient stadium being hemmed in by railway lines and the river.

And inside the distribution of fans didn't work well either - the main groups not being behind the goals unlike in (say) Innsbruck, thus making the colourful displays less effective.
Nevertheless an exciting game with Portugal always behind and coming up short.

Now it seems like its all set up for another German championship...

As for the cities of Basel and Innsbruck - I didn't see the centres at all - only the football grounds.

Overall 4 decent games watched by thousands of fans of all teams and significantly less neutrals than at the World cup.


for more pics see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/54134504

USA & Trinidad May/June 2008

Major League Soccer



New England Revolution v DC United (2-2)


Some 8,000 or so watched this game in the 70,000 capacity Gillette stadium.


At least there was plenty of car parking space.

In a game of two halves DC take the first & Revolution the second.



New England Revolution 2 Dallas 1


played before the Brazil v Venezuela friendly , Revolution were quick out of the blocks , scoring early , consolidating their lead and tending to back off in the 2nd half . Dallas got one back but it was not enough.


Brazil v Venezuela (0-2)


The first ever win for Venezuela over Brazil. Not that they had too many fans inside the Gillette stadium to see their triumph as it was packed with yellow shirts - though probably not too many actuallly travelled from Brazil. This time we had an attendance of 54,000 and the traffic was horrendous.


For the first goal Venezuela broke the offside trap and Maldonaldo's neat chip did the rest. After a mistake by Hernandez of Brazil Vargas produced a trick and a decisive finish for a great 2nd goal. They hold on well enough in the second half. Brazil were moderate e.g. Adriano and Robinho not too involved.


and as an alternative sport ..... Baseball


New York Mets v LA Dodgers


As of next year the Mets will be playing next door as Shea Stadium is being replaced.
But for now over 52,000 turned out on this night to see them lose 9-5 to the Dodgers


Philadelphia Phillies v Cincinatti Reds


The third biggest ever crowd at this stadium, 45,492, saw the Phillies shutout (pitched by Cole Hamels) the Reds 5-0.
Most came to see if the Reds Ken Griffey Jr could reach the 600 home run milestone.

In the end he came close but had to wait.



Back to the Football..... Trinidad & Tobago v England (0-3)


A big event in T & T as the locals celebrated 100 years of football.
For Fabio Capello and England it was a competent enough performance and, importantly, no goals conceded.


The conditions were warm but not oppressive and didn't seem to affect our players.

Generally the locals took the comprehensive defeat well (T & T created little) and seemed to, at least, match our fans capacity for drink.


Aside from the football when the sun shined it was very hot.


Though the islands had a somewhat end-of-season feeling with the rainy season approaching it was a pleasant diversion to see the Caribbean. In particular a tour of Tobago with its impressive coastline and rain forest.


Naturally in the States there were no shortage of ...starbucks - that'll be a double decaf, no whip, vanilla. grande frapuccino (for Bill)


for more pics see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/52032278

Chelsea v Manchester Utd Champions League Final in Moscow

Close but no cigar for Roman.

The dream scenario - to see his club win the Champions League in his home country.

Perfect. But it was not to be.

The Build Up.........

A dramatic final watched by 70,000 in the stadium, including around 40,000 travelling from the UK , certainly upheld the reputation of the Premier League for excitement.

Due to the numbers travelling it was no wonder the Russian authorities decided to relax the rules and allow match ticket holders into Russia without visas.

Even so this visitor endured a wait of over one and a half hours in passport control at Sheremetevo airport.


Based on a general wander around central Moscow and from acnecdotal evidence it was clear that there were more fans of Man Utd in the city and this was borne out by their larger presence inside the stadium. They generally outshouted the flag waving London based supporters.


By the time the game started , after a short but effective opening presentation , it was the latest kick off (10.45pm) that this correspondent had ever witnessed and somehow it was sure to happen that it would go on and on - finally ending at around 1.30 am.
But Moscow was not too cold although the heavy rain made it a very damp walk back to the metro after the game.


The rainstorms also disrupted flights the following day - in my case by some 5 hours.


The Game...


Manchester Utd led by superstar Ronaldo (at times memerising in possession) generally controlled the first half. He caused numerous problems for Michael Essien playing, out of position, at right back.


To cap his performance the man from Madeira headed home a Scholes cross to give the league champions the advantage.

But the equaliser by Frank Lampard near the end of the half , though fortunate, set up an intriguing battle from then on.


Chelsea bouyed by their equaliser put United under pressure in the 2nd half, hitting the bar (Lampard) and post (Drogba)

So we moved towards extra time , penalties and the dénouement.

Prior to that Didier Drogba raised a hand to Vidic after some difference of opinion and his slap though relatively innocuous gave the referee no choice but to send him off and hence he would not take part in the penalty shoot out. This action may well have had an impact (no pun intended) on the result as he presumably would have been one of the first five penalty takers.

Misster chelsea - hero & zero........

Inevitably for Mr Chelsea such an ending by definition magnifies and focussing so much attention on one person - you step up , as the captain and blast the ball into the net .....perfect for Roman Abramovich - to fulfil his dream and win the Champions League in his home country.

But John Terry, for it is he, slipped whilst shooting and the ball glanced off the post.

So a reprieval for Ronaldo , who had missed first , going from hero to zero and back again.

Somehow Nicolas Anelka missing at the end couldn't divert the focus from John Terry - it was his nightmare moment - no wonder he shed a tear or two.

for more pics see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/49693486

Ukraine & Germany May 2008

Its a long way to go without seeing a game. An elapsed time of eleven hours from Kiev including a total of nine hours on two trains. Although Donetsk was not so bad especially in the very pleasant weather.

Because of fixture changes and misleading information my timing meant I missed the final league games - made doubly worse as Shakhtar clinched the championship against local rivals Metalurg.

Somehow watching Obolon Kiev in the second league didn't make up for it (though the Champions League Final did)

Obolon Kiev v Volyn Lutsk

Get the metro - find your way through the Soviet era , down at heel, tower blocks and there is a stadium hosting a team that seems likely to gain promotion to the Ukraine top level.

Seemingly free entry allowed around 1300 to see the home team run out 3-0 winners helped by Volyn having two men sent off.

From Ukraine to Russia (see separate blog for the Champions League Final) then on to Germany for two lower level games.

Cloppenburg v Oberneuland in the Oberliga North.

A small town - a small but interesting ground.

Remnants of old terracing and a stand remain from when it hosted speedway/motor sports.

Now it comprises a main stand and not much else.

This was a watchable game with a good finish as Cloppenburg tried to get back from two goals down - they got one back but just came up short.

Rot Weiss Ahlen v Eintracht Braunschweig

Ahlen are top of the Regional Liga North (3rd level) and were in celebratory mood as they had already clinched promotion - the players parading around the pitch before kick off (see picture)

But it was Braunschweig who dominated , cheered on by a decent size group of away fans. The away team secured a 1-0 win.


The homeward journey took me through Dusseldorf where I indulged in a quality Thai meal (I'd had the caipirinhas the night before - a lot more pleasant than it sounds)

for more photos see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/49693486

Germany & Turkey May 2008

This was my first experience of watching the U-17 European Championships.

Though the surroundings in Antalya were modest, especially in the WOW Sports complex, the impression was of seeing well organised professional players. In the first match Serbia overcame a typically less skilful Scottish side , 2-0 , with potential future star Aleksic scoring from a superb overhead kick.

The second match, played at the newly built and attractive though again somewhat remote Mardan stadium, saw an impressive Turkey team reasonably easily overcome a favoured Dutch side.

Antalya is well served by sunshine,bars and restaurants and it's a popular location for Northern Europeans (mainly Germans)

In their homeland Greuther Furth were underwhelming versus lowly Paderborn much to the annoyance of the locals.

Then I saw Verl, in the Regional Liga North, lose to Babelsberg before a small crowd in a village (where the last bus left at around 5.30 pm) near Gutersloh.

More exciting was Wacker Burghausen winning in Regensburg , a local derby that had significance for both prior to the divisonal split and creation of 3rd Liga.

The following day another village team Hoffenheim powered to victory over Koblenz , led by the skills of Nigerian Obasi partnered by Demba Ba up front. Hoffenheim thus retained a top three position in the 2. Bundesliga. The weather was hot and sunny and the weissbeer (dunkel) in the pleasant nearby town of Sinsheim most conducive.

Back in Turkey I took a tourist trip from Kayseri via Urgup to Cappadocia.

The area is famous for its very unusual rock scenery - from distant volcanic activity.

You see churches (incl some 200 in Goreme alone) , houses and working areas built into the rock. During the tour we even had lunch in a cave-like restaurant.

At thus time of year the region is popular with the locals - particularly on a Sunday.

Somewhat less exciting was Kayserispor vs Ankaragucu.

Kayserispor had won the Turkish cup a few days before and hence most of their regular players were rested and as there was little significance to the game (Kayserispor were settled in 5th and Ankaragucu in 11th) the team from Ankara also included reserve and U-21 players. Ankaragucu won 2-0 and were generally comfortable in doing so.

Later in the year , if all goes to plan, Kayseri will have an impressive new stadium (33,000), currently going up near the edge of town.

There will also be a rail system to take you (near) there - again this is slowly being constructed in the centre of town.

for more pictures see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/49682782

France & Germany March 2008

Amiens 1 Arles 1 Amiens won 4-2 on penalties in the French Cup.

Played in the very unusually styled Stade de Licorne in front of 4500 with a small group of away fans.
Eric Sabin (ex-Oxford & Northampton) scores for lower league Arles who lead until 1 minute before the end when Amiens equalise then go on to win on penalties.



Siegen 0 Ingolstadt 1 in the (German) Regional League South.

Cold, some sleet , very uncomfortable for most of the 4000 in a mainly open stadium.

One free kick goal wins it.


Reims 0 Angers 1



Into France again (Ligue 2) to see this half-built stadium host another away win .

Sandhausen 0 FSV Frankfurt 3 in the Regional League South


Back over the border into Germany to see a convincing win for FSV.


And thankfully its almost springlike.




Later the same day (it takes an hour or so to get from Sandhausen to Strasbourg)


Strasbourg 0 Lille 1


In an interesting city - with exceptional architecture & history - it is France but it could be (and obviously was) Germany.

This game represented my 4th away win in a row.

The home team had a man sent off & lacked some punch up front.
Lille were more convincing before a crowd of 16000 or so.

Mainz 1 Hoffenheim 1 in the 2.Bundesliga .

Ok its not Anfield or Celtic Park but 'you'll never walk alone' was impressive enough with all those red scarves.
So a good atmosphere and a good game with a draw being about right.


Alemannia Aachen 1 Bor Moenchengladbach 1

In the cold & sleet & snow again. 'you'll never walk....' appears again but slightly less effectively.

Moenchengladbach are top of the 2. Bundesliga and bring plenty of fans.

But its Aachen who take the lead early on through the excellent Ebbers. However the away team, prompted by the impressive Neuville, do get the equaliser.


Onto Paris for the England game.

Firstly, as a contrast, some culture - museums - of the middle ages and judaism.

France 1 England 0 at the Stade de France

After seeing 7 games without a (proper) home win this had to be it.

The speed of Anelka causes the penalty and Ribery scores easily enough.
Though there was some good passing by England but not too many good chances.
As usual it gets a lot more disjointed as the subs come on in the 2nd half.

Beckham gets his hundreth cap and very good applause when substituted.

for more pics see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/41768289

Istanbul April 2008

There was rain in Istanbul and cool temperatures in a kind of role-reversal with the UK.

From early Sunday the Galatasaray scarves are prominent - the big Derby game is getting closer and as is often the case the victor almost certainly wins the league.

This time I stay in the Taksim area and it is slightly different from Sultanahmet since there are less tourists and more locals though the restaurant/bar touts are still very active.

In the evening the main streets are thronged with locals marching up and down. Despite the cool and sometimes damp conditions the (male) locals keep to their characteristic suit jacket and trousers.


Before the main event ....

Kasimpasa v Ankaragucu in the Super League

Just a short walk from the Taksim square area is the stadium of Kasimpasa, currently last in the league.
Ankaragucu start well , scoring first but lowly Kasimpasa reply with two quick goals and at times display some good passing. But the away team do get an equaliser in the 2nd half.
Near the end there is impressive fan action by the Ankaragucu support as they form a square around the perimeter of their section and chant their songs.
Maybe 800 watched - Kasimpasa are a team with some support but tiny compared to the big three in this city (Gala, Fener and Besiktas)

Kartalspor v Kocaelispor

In a shared minibus it takes about an hour from Kadikoy (on the Asian side) - at least the way I went - to get to Kartal .
Your correspondent arrived just 10 minutes before the start -typically finding the ground near a large group of police.
This second level game had plenty of interest for the away team as they were third before kick off. They brought some 200/300 fans not all of which made it inside the stadium.

After some initial fighting with the police they settled down to enjoy their team take a 2 goal lead. Kartalspor only getting a consolation near the end. As can happen in Turkey there were a good size group of fans watching from raised ground outside the stadium - some of these turned out to be away fans giving those inside the opportunity to indulge in some 'counter-chanting' to their fellow ultras outside.

A taxi from Asia (Kartal) to Europe (Sisli) took only 35 minutes or so.

Time enough for a kebab and to sample the atmosphere around the Ali Sami Yen stadium.

The rain doesn't matter to Galatasaray fans - only beating fierce rivals Fenerbahce.

The Taksim area had been getting busier and filling up with yellow & red but around the stadium there is another level of intensity.

Galatasaray 1 Fenerbahce 0

the noise, the chanting, the intensity...

A typical derby game - not much flowing football and won following a mistake between goalie and defender.
Galatasaray go three points clear with two games to go - it should be enough to win the title.
Against a Fenerbahce team showing a bunch of De Souzas, a frustrating Kezman and Kazim Kazim (Richards) who is generally lost amongst the frenzy.

Though better at Fener , in a larger stadium that holds in the atmosphere, this game means so much to those involved. Illustrated by the number of fans waiting outside to join in the celebrations and by those around Taksim square plus numerous others throughout the country.


Istanbul - the history, the crowds, the ferry boats, the mosques.

It's a place that draws you back - for the football and to discover more about the history & the culture.

More Starbucks than i remember
- caipirinha count is zero however Raki count = 6.


more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/40746768

Ireland/N Ireland April 2008

Sporting Fingal , a new team based in Dublin play at the Morton (athletics) stadium in Santry in the north of the city. They are named after a county within Dublin - Fingal - which is recognised as the fastest growing county in Ireland and therefore one of the fastest developing in the EU.

This local derby against Shelbourne despite being played on a wintry night drew over 1200 fans - a very large crowd for the Irish 1st division.

The bitter wind certainly played a part in the goalless draw.
Despite having their right back sent off for a bad tackle Shelbourne generally held their own and might have won the game near the end.

A couple of hours on the train & you can be in Belfast.

Here Crusaders played Limavady at their Seaview ground (more like motorway view) before a much smaller crowd of around 350. Top scorer Davy Rainey showed Limavady how to score despite the lowly placed visitors rather surprisingly taking the lead. Rainey converted two chances left footed and after that Crues dominated hitting the bar a few times. It stayed 2-1.

Caipirinhna count = 2 Starbucks = 0 and no Goths.

more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/40739388

Sweden April 2008

Trelleborgs v Malmo
before a good crowd of c. 7000 and a large contingent of away support, complete with flags, this local Derby produced an ok but goalless game. Trelleborgs had less possession but produced the better chances.
They also defended very well against the favoured Malmo team who struggled to create a telling opportunity.

A brisk walk (it got cold) to the town centre where its very quiet - the locals mostly being at home by 9pm.

Bus then train , via Malmo to Gothenburg.

From a central Gothenburg hotel it is easy enough to walk to the old & new Ullevi stadiums , to see progress at the Gamla Ullevi (where the rebuild is progressing well) and walk on to the nearby Valhalla ground for :-

Örgryte v Limhamn Bunkeflo in the Superettan (2nd level).

Played in the small Valhalla stadium whilst Gamla Ullevi (will it be called new-old Ullevi after the reconstruction ?) is being redeveloped this game produced another 0-0 draw. Again both teams were well organised , generally good defensively but created few clear cut chances. A decent crowd of around 2500 watched in cold but dry conditions.

But there is no doubt it is an attractive city with its pubs and restaurants and a nice enclosed shopping area.

As you would expect in such a Scandanavian city the transport structure is excellent.
Some things are free - a plethora of newspapers but most things are expensive not least caipirinhna at 92 SEk and beer.

On a controversial fashion note - maybe the blonde girls should checkout their counterparts in Moscow as i think , dare i say it, the standard long blonde hair-look needs updating.

Anyway onto Degerfors, some 3 hours or so by train from Gothenburg, an industrial town of somewhat moderate appearance.

But they have the biggest stadium in the Superettan - listed as a rather generous 15000. There were over 2000 for the game vs Sirius (from Upsalla)

The local 'ultras' produced some fireworks outside but it was Sirius who produced the fireworks on the pitch winning very convincing 5-1 . Great movement and passing - they should do well on this performance. Not much the Degerfors coach could do - he would need to be Gunnar Nordahl, Sven-Goran Eriksson and Tord Grip (all ex-Degerfors coaches) rolled into one to have done something about their situation.

Back to the b& b, via the local bar, where they have numerous Degerfors team pictures but its very subdued after the comprehensive defeat.

Return to Malmo after some 5 and a half hours on the train.

There it was cold and wet for my fourth (and last) game of this trip.

Next to the existing ground is rising up another impressive, this time more traditional looking, stadium.

But for the moment Malmo play in the original stadium & on this night played much better than at Trelleborgs. Helped by an early goal & a generally controlled effort they went to win 2-0 against a limited Gefle.

Liberian defender Jimmy Dixon got the second goal & Malmo should have had a few more.

Caipirinhas = 1 (costly) and Goths - just a few in , appropriately, Gothenburg.


more photos at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/40729665

Germany March 2008

This trip was made via Heathrow Terminal 5 - essentially a great shopping centre where you can catch a plane.

Rot Weiss Oberhausen 3 Lubeck 0

in the Regionalliga Nord (3rd level) played in a an older style ground , with a track around before some 3500.

After a poor first half this resulted in an easy win for the home team with Terranova getting all three.



In the evening I sample the delights of Dusseldorf - or at least a Maredo restaurant.

On the way a Tibet related protest took place - expect more to come as the Olympics nears .




Paderborn 4 St Pauli 1



In springlike weather the St Pauli fans were many & numerous, tracked by lots of police.

There were no shortage of drinks amongst the motley crew of punks & similar.

And piercings a-plenty.

During the game St Pauli start ok, scored first then collapsed with their goalie (Borger) having a nightmare.

They certainly got outfought by lowly Paderborn with Koen's left foot doing considerable damage .



As always in Germany there are people around to collect the discarded bottles and as always there are a bunch of Goths congregated at Duisburg station as I arrive back.


more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/40725139

N Ireland March 2008

So the Gold Cup was won by Denman easily enough - but he's no Arkle.

Back to the football...

Newry City 3 Limavady Utd 0

In a ground with plenty of character the home team eventually overcame their visitors from well down the league. Limavady had struggled to score all season whereas Newry score two nice goals and a third after a goalie error.

In the cold and rain not many saw this one (100 ?)

Then via Belfast to Larne for :-

Larne 1 Cliftonville 2

There were plenty of fans in the side terrace supporting second in the league Cliftonville and their presence probably swelled the crowd to around 500.

Cliftonville definitely looked far superior and should have got more than one early goal.

Somehow Larne got one back in the 2nd half, but then Cliftonville laid siege to the home goal and Holland scored his second to just about secure the win.

Small crowds but interesting grounds.

http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/40718944

Spain February 2008

Spain is cool though bright and sunny for this February visit.


The Costa del Azahar area is quiet and my hotel in Benicassim is good value out of season.
Though many restaurants and some hotels are shut for the off-season there are enough open to enjoy the hospitality with the locals.


Not too far away is Vila-Real (or Villarreal)
Home to the yellow submarine.
Who are up against Russians Zenit St Petersburg in a UEFA Cup 2nd leg game.


In a three quarters full stadium , with the drums beating, Villarreal took a long time to score after Zenit had stretched their overall lead to 2-0.
Although the Russians eventually had two men sent off - one for a second yellow for time wasting - they just about held on for an 'away goals' rule win.

There was a good sized group of away fans inside the ground and before that packing the local bars outside. Probably not too many came directly from Russia.

For the sightseeing part of this trip I drove to Vilafames (an attractive hillside town with a nice contemporary art museum) & Montanejos (via the CV20 a memorable drive through the mountain gorges in very pleasant weather)

Then from Benicassim to Albacete for an early evening game.
The town centre is quiet on this Saturday afternoon though there are some active bars around the side streets - a few (Sporting Gijon) away fans are in evidence.

Albacete 1 Sporting Gijon 2

This 2nd level match was won comfortably enough by 6th placed Sporting against a lowly home team who generally lacked confidence , only scoring near the end. Some 6000 watched in cold(two pullover) weather.

Its even colder (c. 7 degrees) in Soria for the next days midday kick off.


Numancia still have the old stadium next door - based on a biggish stand with track around.

The home team are leaders of the Segunda division and they struggle somewhat but do overcome Hercules (2-1)

Less than two hours away , by car, is Pamplona where it is thankfully warmer.


Here I saw Osasuna defeat a moderate Atletico Madrid to help ease their relegation worries.

Its a lofty view from the main stand - disproportionately much larger than the other three sides.


To finish this trip - some more culture and a look around the nice medieval centre of Vittora Gasteiz in the heart of the Basque region.


for more pics see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/29109493

Madeira February 2008

Funchal - elderly tourists , mainly British or German, mingling students some with bare, flat midriffs and ever changing February weather.

An atmospheric old town with very nice restaurants and bars together with a sizeable marina and nearby casino are all set up to cater for the (well heeled) tourist industry.

It has two main teams , slightly incrongrously playing in different stadiums, one (Maritimo) in the city stadium , within somewhat uphill walking distance of the centre . The other,Nacional, a steep drive up the mountainside , my journey being made in part dense fog/low level cloud .

In the first game Maritimo met league leaders Porto, had one good chance , missed, and from then on the visitors and league leaders dominated, scoring strategically on the stroke of half time. Two goals later in the 2nd half and Djalma being sent off for two yellows helped secure a comfortable win.
Lisandro Lopez looked every inch the leagues top goalscorer getting two & Tunisian Sektioui the other.
Porto had a decent size group of supporters though probably quite a few live locally.


Nacional played Vitoria Guimaraes, watched by less than 500, for only about half an hour before the low level cloud /fog made it unrealistic to continue , after two stoppages. It's the first time I can remember having a game postponed for too much cloud.

Rather than see the re-scheduled Nacional match (played the next day) I chose to visit Machico , along the coast from Funchal, and see them lose 1-0 to Valdevez in the Portuguese 3rd level. In a scenic ground a small crowd of around 200 watched this encounter.

Refreshments - some nice food, especially fish, from a good choice of restaurants.

Caipirinha count = 2 Poncha (the local cocktail) = 2

more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/40709503

Ghana 2008

The offer of marriage came whilst sharing a taxi to Lake Bosumtwe - I said I already had one - and one was all I was allowed, in the UK anyway.




Extended families , multiple wives, larger children looking after smaller ones. Women doing most of the work and walking many miles with their 'shop' on their head.

Mostly everyone sells.


Thats the way it is.

THE FOOTBALL

Coming to this part of West Africa were Elephants, Lions, Warriors, Eagles, Super Eagles, National Elephants, Squirrels, Indomitable Lions, Pharaohs, Hawks, Bullets, Antelopes, Teranga Lions, Carthage Eagles and 'Bafana Bafana'. 15 teams joining the Black Stars of Ghana for the 26th Africa Cup of Nations.

What we saw was loads of goals in a fast moving first phase of matches including some absolute crackers.

And despite the hot conditions not too many dull games.

Crowds were generally good although for some games they didn't turn up until half time.

Whilst the home team win their first three games they only play well in the last.

But Ghana do go on to the semi finals after a great , battling win over Nigeria.

Unfortunately Cameroon prove too strong in the end - absorbing the hosts pressure to breakaway and get the only goal. Arguably Ghana might have made the final with Essien in midfield and a better striker. Nevertheless they had given the home fans a good run for their money without getting to the final. Inspirational figures like Essien and Muntari gave plenty for the cause.

When Ghana were doing well the streets are crowded , the bars are busy. Though very basic they have the essentials - beer and a mega-sound system.

But after the home team lose the roads were quiet, the flags having gone, t-shirts are now half price and the traders gradually switch back to their usual goods.

THE FINAL - Cameroon v Egypt in Accra

As Ghana didn't make it there were many tickets for sale and the stadium was probably less than half full at kick off (though it did fill up somewhat later on)

Not surprisingly a more cautious approach was adopted by both teams in hot , sticky conditions. Cameroon were particularly defensive leaving Eto'o up front and isolated.

It was an error from Rigobert Song , Cameroon's most capped player, that proved decisive. He was caught in possession by Zidan , who crossed for Abou Treika to score.

So the Pharaohs clinched their 6th title and after the closing ceremony (and ecstatic celebrations) they received the trophy from FIFA president Sepp Blatter.

TRAVEL

Buses - usually late departing, sometimes by well over an hour . Their speed depends on the driver (who sometimes needed waking up before departure) and the roads which were variable being potholed, littered with abandoned vehicles and sometimes with substantial roadworks.

Trains - you could see some tracks - and numerous people living around and on them but never any trains. Nobody went on them though I did find someone who had seen one.

Taxis & Tro tros - after a while you get a feel for the 'going rate' then its usually a quick negotiation . Taxis themselves could be in moderate shape but did the job even if in one case the driver had no keys (hotwiring each time i guess) The tro-tros , as long as they were going your way, represented good value.

Don't expect too much hot water in the hotels - not that it matters too much as the weather is so warm anyway (in some places it hadn't rained much since November)

Minor faults are common - door locks that fall apart, windows that don't close and rationed toilet paper.

And be aware of the islamic alarm clock found in one place I stayed - set to go off every 4 hours - no wonder I didn't always sleep well in that hotel.

TOURIST SIGHTS

Mole National Park - from Tamale (in the far North mainly Muslim region) two hours each way - half of which is along a very bumpy, dusty track - think Dakar Rally.

Two hours of strolling around with a ranger (with gun - not needed) But worth it to be near enormous elephants, various monkeys, warthogs, antelopes, crocodiles & some cheeky baboons.

The unenclosed park occupies a very large area and but you see only a small fraction.

Jamestown Accra - your correspondent decided to walk around 'British Accra' with a local -after agreeing a deal for him to show me around . On the way we met his mother. In typically hot conditions we walked around the old harbour & fort area and watched the fishermen (and women) dealing with their catches.

Slave Castle - In a country where they still use the expression for the British as 'our Imperial masters', whether ironically or not, it was essential to see one of the slave castles at Cape Coast.

The tour took you into the dungeons , condemned cell & through the 'door of no return' - the exit the slaves took to the ships bound for the West Indies , South America & the Caribbean.

THE COUNTRY & THE PEOPLE

They walk - one guy told me about when he was a young child he walked for 5 miles to his aunties' farm to harvest some fruit , then took around 2 hours to put it all together, place it onto his head & walk the 5 miles back to his mother's house.

No wonder the local men are usually slim, upright & fit (as long as they avoid the nasty diseases)
Talking of which at one point during the tournament there were 30,000 condoms distributed to various drinking spots around the central region.

Football is (also) popular and so is religion but funerals are the where the real expenditure goes. Often it seems there is no money to help sick relations but if they die no expense is spared.

For the living, often existing on 5 cedis (£2.50) per day, the routine is familiar - meaning usually selling something on the street.

Or working in the markets which are jam-packed wooden structures providing an intense, claustrophobic & disorientating environment. Most things imaginable are sold.

Food and drink - rice & chicken , beef & rice , beans - not many dare try the fish sold in the street stalls.

Some decent margaritas , Starbucks count = 0.

Out in the villages you see animals (eg goats , chickens) and children roaming free. Some in disconcertingly dangerous roadside situations.

The facilities are basic with sewers running down the sides of the roads. This makes wandering around in the dark more tricky than usual.

Sunday morning is different as the families dress up for church and in the sunshine the sparkling clothes and smiles of the children brighten up any mood.

Being there as a Westerner , though not a Bill Gates or Bono, you can't helping wanting to assist in some way , however miniscule.
So I embarked on a short lesson for the 6 year-old son of a hotel landlord.

Paq Kwasi and I played noughts & crosses - he grasped that he put down the crosses (and I the noughts) but despite much thought he wasn't able to understand how to 'win'.

Similarly playing 'hangman' he struggled with some of the letters and their pronunciation and couldn't recognise his country (Ghana) or the town he lived in (Tamale) when written down.

Maybe education is a factor.

A (European) volunteer worker who I met on a bus told me this story...

The new teacher gives the young children paper & pencils and says

' so children today you are going to draw a picture of a house - lets say your house'
the children get ready then some minutes pass and nothing is happening.


'why are you waiting' the teacher asks.


'Miss we're waiting for you to draw the house and then we will copy it'

Typical of the local education - perhaps.

As the trip nears its end you feel the need to get back to European comforts more and more . So you gravitate towards the up-market hotels for the air conditioning and some peace and quiet after the Accra mayhem.

In one hotel I come across some Cameroon players and ex-star Roger Milla but conversation is very limited as he doesn't speak English.

So the football was memorable , the organisation not so. But the friendliness of the real people would draw you back.

Though I refused the marriage proposal I spent much time smiling and nodding at the locals as they acknowledge you. Often it was the children with their uninhibited smiles that you remember. When they smile the world lights up.

Thats the way it is.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/40759302

Alicante 1 Real Madrid 1 19th December 2007

The copious graffiti on the walls of the tower blocks, as you pass to & from the airport, tells you something but I'm not sure what.

Its breezy along the seafront as you view the expensive yachts moored in the marina.

The centre is reasonably busy though some of the shops & restaurants are closed.

The rock overlooks everything as its always done.


Alicante in winter.

And Real Madrid are in town for the first leg of the Copa Del Rey.

On the night many locals turned out, some 16.000, to see plenty of big names (Guti, Robben, Dudek, Heinze,Gago,Metzelder etc) in the Madrid line up, hoping to see their boys , from the Spanish 3rd level, 'get a result'.

They nearly did.

Creating more chances Alicante score from a penalty (no Dudek heroics) early on in the 2nd half & nearly hold on against a fairly lacklustre Madrid (Gago being one of the few to show some urgency)
Its left to Equatorial Guinea's Balboa, a sub, to head the equaliser from a corner in added time.

But, one has to assume, Real will prevail easily enough in the 2nd leg.


food & drink of choice - tapas, beer & a caipirinha
starbucks count = 0

Thessaloniki December 2007

At this time of year Thessaloniki has few tourists.

On a Friday or Saturday night there is a vibrant bar & restaurant scene as the locals , well wrapped up, parade along the seafront.

Inventive xmas lights add to the scene.

Unlike Athens there are not many tourists & therefore no hustlers.

The fashion features are large sunglasses, cigarettes, porcelain skin & the look of Vera Farmiga (The Departed)

Your correspondents food & drink of choice was kebabs, ouzo, bread sticks & baklava.

starbucks count - 4

As for the football this comprised seeing three games in three stadiums a few kilometres apart.

Aris 1 Braga 1 UEFA Cup

Aris play in an atmospheric medium size stadium, a bus ride from the centre.

For me there is something special about arriving at a stadium within a built up area, the mingling crowds , the ground hemmed in by buildings all serve enhance the atmosphere & intensity.

Despite it having 3 open sides the locals can certainly generate some noise.

That & the paper storm, flares ,smoke & counter-chanting made it an interesting night.

No doubt this atmosphere goes a long way towards maintaining their fearsome home record.

Braga , skillful & well organised scored early following a goalie error then tended to contain Aris apart from a cross & header converted by defender Ronaldo Guiaro.

The draw means that one or other will probably miss out on going through to the next phase.

PAOK 2 Veria 0

a regulation win for PAOK in the Super League with South African Glen Salmon leading the way with an excellent traditional centre forwards performance - winning most headers , showing good control & getting a goal.

Again the counter chanting is impressive - even the main stand joining in.

The stadium , larger, is again near a built up area.
For a bigger game I'm sure the home support (and surroundings) would be very intimidating.

Iraklis 0 Panathinaikos 1

the last of the three games in this trip. Walkable from the centre the stadium is (again) 3 open sides & a covered main stand with a track around.

The big team from Athens bring around 300 supporters located behind one goal opposite which are the 'blue boys' of Iraklis.

Panathinaikos score fairly early & perhaps predictably tend to control the game apart from some Iraklis flourishes . Some offside decisions upset the locals but in the end they have to accept the defeat.

Switzerland December 2007

do you have any cocktails ?
only two : caipirinha.... stop right there.

yes St Gallen has seen the light - they even have a bar called (the) 'caipirinha bar'.

After South America Switzerland is particularly calm, safe & ordered.
Somewhat cold at this time of year but bearable.

St Gallen offers a pleasant central area , with picturesque buildings, starbucks (plural) & restaurants of many kinds.

On a Saturday morning there is a market amongst which the affluent citizens can mingle accompanied by the smell of gluhwein.
There were some nose studs in evidence & the odd Goth but otherwise there was no sign of revolution coming from this part of the World.


In the afternoon you could take a short tram ride to the old Espenmoos stadium to watch St Gallen play Young Boys.

St Gallen 2 Young Boys 7

If this was the last competitive game at the old stadium then it couldn't be more low key.
There was no sign of any (home) celebration as YB overran St G with Hakan Yakin scoring four against his old teams very poor defence.
Incidentally Marco Tardelli, producer of arguably the best ever goal celebration after scoring in the 1982 World Cup Final, also had a spell at St Gallen.

FC Zurich 0 Aarau 1

Zurich is maybe an hour away.

And the Letzigrund stadium is a short tram journey from the centre.
It is famous for hosting the Weltklasse meeting & it does look more like an athletics stadium.
Anyone watching games here at the summer European Championships might not have the best of views.

For FC Z fans this game was not great viewing from wherever you were sitting.
They found it hard to get anything going against a resolute Aarau even when the visitors had been reduced to ten men.
Before that Aarau had missed a penalty, scored soon after & so went on to be the first team to beat Zurich at home this season.

Peru v Brazil November 2007

Played in the Monumental stadium in Lima this World Cup Qualifying game attracted 61,000 plus some others who, despite having tickets never made it into the stadium.
The authorities closed the gates because of an apparently full ground.

Its takes a taxi ride & a longish walk to get near the stadium. Because there is only one way in , the stadium being ringed by mountains, the roads are blocked at various points by the police.

But when the weather is pleasant enough & the surroundings impressive despite the blatant advertising (see pics) it is a very traditional way to approach a game, amongst the fans.


Your correspondent had about 3 days in Lima.
Choosing to be in the centre is not the best option as the hotels are generally old & uninviting & apart from the very impressive main square there is not too much to see.
So i'll opt for nearby Miraflores as a base next time.

But football was the focus.

It was a mediocre Brazil performance , at times languid, but lit up by a sublime finish from star-man Kaka.
Having taken the lead you would assume Brazil would go on to win especially considering the past history (3 wins by Peru from 37 encounters)

But Peru had plenty of play & deserved their equaliser, even though it was from a deflected shot. It certainly got the locals animated & the goal was shown repeatedly on television.


It was my last game on this trip to South America & I finished off the evening with a couple of pisco sours (a very reasonable alternative to a caipirinha) & a steak.

Atletico Paranaense v Sport Recife November 2007

your correspondents' plan was to visit Asuncion for a weekend.
However this schedule was amended as the Gol flight bound for Paraguay was unable to land due to bad weather and went on to Curitiba , in Brazil.

One perhaps not always recognised aspect of travel , being by definition outside of most normal routines, is to cope with situations that arise unexpectedly.

My choice was to take an indirect flight (there being no available direct flights - 'until wednesday') to the Paraguay/Brazil border then a bus onto to Asuncion to arrive at maybe 5 or 6 am the next day.

Or I could stay in Brazil - a quick check of the paper confirmed there was a game in Curitiba on the Sunday.

So that was my choice - unwind the Asuncion reservation & settle in Curitiba for the weekend.
And enjoy the odd caipirinha, my favourite cocktail, at a budget price.

A pleasant enough centre of a largish city with an interesting historic area Curitiba was bright, sunny & vibrant on a Saturday morning.

Still trendy platform boots were the most recognisable fashion statement as on my last visit to Brazil.

As nice as Saturday was mingling with the locals enjoying the sunshine my preference (as always) was to see a game. My optimism was raised slightly as I saw some Coritiba fans at a garage - unfortunately there were 4 of them , in a smallish car, otherwise I would have asked them for 'lift'to their game in Florianopolis (against Avai)
Due to the distance involved & my need to get back to Curitiba , my only realistic hope had been to do the trip by car.

But I had to settle for just the one game - played on the Sunday between Atletico Paranaense & Sport Recife.

Atletico are one of three main teams in Curitiba - they and Coritiba have the biggest support followed by Parana. Incidentally I was told that the 3rd best supported team in this city was actually Corinthians (of Sao Paulo)

Atletico play in a 2/3rds built European style stadium (see pic) that they expect to expand to a capacity of 41000. Like many in Europe (not least Wembley) it had the seats decked out in red.

The impression was of a go-ahead club (the club have given Japanese electronics company ,Kyocera, the stadium naming rights) that will be prominent in promoting its stadium/city as a candidate for the 2014 World Cup.

Certainly the combination of a modern ground & a pleasant/secure city seem like a winning formula to this observer.

Sadly the game didn´t really live up to the surroundings (or the support from the ultras)

It being goalless despite Sport playing with ten men for the last quarter. Atletico had a bag full of free kicks - only one of which got very close.