The Ivory Coast March 2009

Post War




Some 3 or 4 years after the civil war ended the Ivory Coast is not thronged with tourists.


But the major hotels in the commercial capital Abidjan are well filled with players and others involved in the African Nations Championships (CHAN)

The competition involves only locally based players and was to be played at two locations - Abidjan and in the former rebel held area of Bouake.


Near the lagoon the Hotel Golf provides an oasis of calm with its views of the city skyline. As well as housing the Ghana team and its some its supporters one floor is occupied by the rebel leaders.

Apart from such people your correspondent noticed American evangelists, one called Lou , a french Benny Hill lookalike (evoking memories of his performance in the Italian Job) accompanied by a local lady and various business types.


At the weekend the central areas of the city are very quiet but during the working week the place is transformed with streets jammed with cars and street vendors.


But for real mayhem and seeing 'real Africa' you need to go to Adjame.

There the route to the bus station is through narrow, unmade roads filled with a seething humanity.

All this in heat of 30 degrees plus.



Lightweight Elephants



Ivory Coast 0 Senegal 0 in the Felix Houphouet-Boigny stadium in Abidjan.


Only around 3000 turned out to see the already eliminated home team play their final group game and they had plenty of room to find some shade.



It was soon evident that these Elephants were distinctly lightweight, especially in attack.



The much taller and stronger Senegalese did just enough, only needing a draw to qualify for the semi finals.


It was only near the end that the Ivory Coast got closer to breaking their duck. But they failed to do so and the locals would transfer their allegiance to Ghana.


Libya feel the heat.



Zimbabwe 0 Libya 0 in Abidjan


Another goalless game in this final Group B match played in very hot conditions before maybe 500 people.

Libya were the better team in the first half but having failed to score ran out of steam in the second. They had the best player in forward Ahmed Osman but even his trickery was blunted after the break.


Most of the action happened in the last few minutes with Zimbabwe's captain Banda missing a great chance to win the game.



The draw meant that both teams went out of the event.

Into the rebel area.

It takes around 4 hours on the bus to get to the Ivory Coast capital of Yamoussoukru.
You pass 3 or 4 police roadblocks and have various stops for refreshments.


Yamoussoukru is much quieter and more relaxed than Abidjan.


It can boast the presidential palace and a magnificant Basilica - claimed to be the largest Christian place of worship in the world.

Some might say the $300m , plus large maintenance costs, could have been better spent on infrastructure and alleviating poverty.


The President hotel offered very comfortable accomodation and the chance to mix with more players.


And in the evening the maquis have outdoor cooking (no cutlery) in pleasant enough surroundings.



An hour and a half further north and into the rebel held area of Bouake.


Somewhat disappointedly there were no 'gun totting' soldiers in evidence.


And the locals did turn out in large numbers to see this first semi final.



Ghana into the final.



Ghana 1 Senegal 1 (Ghana won 7-6 on penalties) in Bouake

Rather surprisingly there were large queues of fans keen to see neighbouring Ghana play the Teranga Lions. It would take until half time before the stadium was filled.

This was a battle between the tall , sturdy Sengalese and the stockier more skilful Ghanaians.

And in particular the talented Ghana forwards and the frugal Senegal defence.

Ghana scored first through striker Antwi but soon after Senegal equalised from a fortunate free-kick deflection. That seemed to deflate Ghana a little.

Into the second half and extra time with no further scoring as the game became more attritional.

Ghana seemed to be happy to go penalties and their confidence and concentration paid off as Senegal 'blinked first' with Djilabodji shooting over.

The crowd dispersed happily enough.

Fifth for Given.

Senegal 1 Zambia 2 in Abidjan

Back in Abidjan for the third place playoff game between the two semi final losers.

A couple of thousand were in the stadium mainly concentrating on finding shade in the heat and humidity.

Senegal gave some squad players an opportunity and it may have cost them the game.

They did score first through Sow from a neat pass by Badiane.

But the Zambian coach, Herve Renard, made a couple of substitutions at the interval and the Chipolopolo forwards did the rest. Event top scorer Given Singuluma scored the second and his fifith of the tournament to seal the win.

Rather incongruously there was a presentation on the pitch to award the Zambians their third place medals.

Heart of Sunshine.

DR Congo 2 Ghana 0 the CHAN final in Abidjan.

So to the final.

Some were queuing from 9am to get the (free) tickets to see the favourites Ghana win the first edition of this event.

They piled off the buses in numbers and endured some light rain showers prior to the 4pm kick off. Security was tighter as the president of the Ivory Coast will be attendance.

We had music, dancing and an entertaining simulated football game (sans ball) before the kick off. Followed by the presidential entourage, complete with various limousines, making an entrance.

The stadium is just about full and expecting Ghana to win.

Ghana do their prolonged huddle (all huddles are getting longer) and DRC their communal prayers.

From the start DRC settled quicker and passed it around. It was not long before the impressive (and best player award winner) Mputu causes danger though the teams go in goalless at half time.

Soon after DRC get the breakthrough as Kaluyituka heads in at the far post. Though Ghana did try to step up the pace they seemed tired and in the end frustrated.

Mbenza's goal settled the game and though DRC did tend to overindulge the tricks the crowd by now had switched allegiance and recognised a worthy winner.

The Leopards, especially goalie Kidiaba, enjoyed their celebrations as captain Gladys Bokese collected the trophy from president Laurent Gbagbo.

Epilogue.

Time will tell how this event progresses.

But, in the main, the quality of these five games was good despite lacking many obvious standout forwards. Some of the players are sure to find places in European leagues.

Certainly it meant a lot to DR Congo who had large crowds greet them on their return to Kinshasa.

In 2011 the competition , with 16 teams rather than 8, is scheduled to be in Sudan.

An interesting choice of location given the present political situation.

Time will tell how the event progresses.

for more pics see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/102321561

Spain & Portugal February 2009

El Kun.



Recreativo 0 Atletico Madrid 3

Weather issues caused flight cancellations and 7 abortive hours at Luton aiport.

Enacting 'Plan B' I eventually left for Spain two days later and drove from Malaga to Huelva for the first of six games in Iberia.

The first half of this one was a Kun Aguero master class - what price for him on this performance ?

He linked up superbly with Diego Forlan to score one himself and make two more for the Uruguyuan.

Recre had no answer.

Though they did miss various chances and should have got at least one consolation.

A good sized crowd of over 17,000 sat mostly in silence , apart from whistling their teams (and the referees) performance.

The stadium is characterised by a very tall main stand and three much smaller , open sides.

And the weather though cooler later thankfully bore no resemblance to the UK.


Somewhat splashy.

Pacos Ferreira 1 Belenenses 1

From Huelva, near the Portuguese border via Faro to just north east of Porto.
It rained , heavily at times, prompting some thoughts of a possible postponent (and bringing Plan C into action)
But despite the surface water the pitch held up well.

A moderate crowd of less than 1000 , including 20 Belenenses fans behind one goal, watched these two lower table teams tend to cancel each other out.

Belenenses scored an early goal through the hard working Saulo after a move down the left.

But Pacos equalised when Cristiano shot in decisively left footed .

The weather , thankfully, improved later on but neither side got too close to securing a winner.


Outpassed.

Spain 2 England 0

A well filled and atmospheric Sevilla stadium saw England get a status report against the European champions.

The report card showed that we are not a top level team (yet).

We passed it around but Spain did it better.

And not many English forwards (Rooney ?) would have taken the first goal as well as David Villa.

The second half began with too many changes by England (a la Eriksson) surely meaning it would be harder to assess individuals perfomance within the system.
Better to make a few changes and adjust accordingly.

Beckham got his 108th cap, equalling Bobby Moore, and showed his fitness and re-confirmed that despite the obvious off-field distractions he can still do 'a job'.

Spain have never lost at the Sanchez Pizjuan and they still havn't.


Late Action.

Real Murcia 2 Real Sociedad 0 in the Segunda.

Murcia is a medium sized city with an impressive newish stadium (the Nueva Condomina)
Real have a good sized following considering they are not particularly well placed in the Segunda division.
Over 14,000 endured some windy weather in the stadium or more pleasant conditions in the nearby (equally impressive) shopping centre.

Relegated Sociedad were better placed in the league.

After an even first half the action warmed up later in the second as two defenders, one from each side, got sent off.
Then in the last few minutes sub. Sikora firstly set up Mejia then scored himself to send the crowd home happy.
I took some time to get out of the car park and further time trying to find my way back to my Murcia hotel - not atypical.

That was on Saturday and on the Sunday I drove back to Andalucia to watch two games on the Sunday.


One is enough.

Roquetas 1 Guadalajara 0 Segunda B Group 4

Not the most salubrious part of Andalucia.

Two stands , one larger covered , one smaller and uncovered with a track around made up the stadium. Plenty of room for the 200 or so who watched this third level encounter played at 11.30 am.
An early goal was enough for the home side to get the win. Otherwise it was fairly even with Guadalajara unable to break down the Roquetas defence.

Not too far away is Almeria.


9 man triumph.

Almeria 3 Real Valladolid 2

The best game by far.

15,000 saw a famous win for the home team in the Mediterreanean Games stadium.

A typically small group of away fans were placed in a segment behind the goal.

Valladolid had started well , scoring from an impressive Pedro Leon free kick and consolidating the lead when Goitom had an easy job of knocking in a cross. So far so good for Real V.

But Almeria have a good home record and they scored three second half goals and had two men sent off.
Firstly Crusat converted a Kalu Uche cross.
Then Bruno is (rather harshly) sent off for a late tackle.

Again Crusat combines with Kalu Uche for the Nigerian to head home at the far post.

But the game ends for Uche as he gets a red for fending off an opponent.

Immediately after this the nine men get the winner as a defensive mix up, with Justo Villar way out of goal, allows top scorer Negredo to lob it in to an empty net.

Valladolid have a defender sent off for two yellows and despite some pressure they fail to get an equaliser.

Almeria waste time, more players are booked , but they hold on for a famous win.

more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/98950528

Morocco Janury 2009

Take me to the Kasbah (or a game)

The first flight out of Luton is to Marrakech at 6am. So it meant a very early start for this traveller.

It was surely too good to be true to see a top level game on Friday, Saturday and Sunday in Morocco.


And so it proved , despite various websites indicating games on consecutive days at Safi, Agadir and Marrakech the reality was somewhat different.


With a late shuffle the fixtures were changed and all three of those matches were now on the same day, at the same time.
So my trip to the coastal city of Safi , three hours on the bus, was not to include a game after all.

My plans rescheduled I returned to Marrakech for a Saturday game and a match in Khourigba on the Sunday.


Fes miss pen.

FAC Marrakech 0 MAS Fes 0

Played in the characteristically pink/red shaded Stade El Harti on an artifical pitch in the centre of Marrakech.

A reasonable group of away fans were in the attendance of 3500.
It was cool , dry and overcast.

The game started at a good pace with some half chances spurned.
Though Marrakech did most of the pressing it was Fes who had the best opportunity after 11 minutes when Benhenia was brought down. But Baqqali's penalty was saved.

Then the home coach was sent away from the dugout for persistent arguing - he was a hero to the home fans.


As the second half develops the pace is slower and Fes defend deeper. Despite the game getting stretched later on there is no breakthrough.

Meanwhile in the centre of the city the horse and carts , donkeys and sundry mopeds mix in the streets.

Some negotiate the narrow streets of the Medina whilst in the main square the snake charmers and fortune tellers (maybe I should have asked them about the fixtures ?) draw the crowds.

Wydad strike in the Phosphates.

Khourigba 0 Wydad Casablanca 1

Khourigba is a mining town some 250 km or so from Marrakech.

My trip began and ended in Marrakech but with a story in-between.


Given that there was no bus until around midday - how do you get there in time to see the 3pm game and get back.


My decision was to negotiate with a 'grand taxi' driver for him to take me to Khourigba , wait and then bring me back after the match.


100 euros was the deal.

He would use the bosses' (better) car.

Firstly he had to get written police permission to drive outside of his regulated limit - that took around 20 minutes.


Then we changed cars (and water caps) whilst i had a look at the tyres (ok)


We set off and proceeded to go around in circles for about an hour as the police had closed all the relevant city exits due to the Marrakech marathon (i'd seen some of the runners starting off earlier)
I saw some nice and some not so nice areas of Marrakech.


We stopped two or three times to ask and it was evident that many others had the same problem.


Eventually it took an off-road manouevre and some aggressive driving to get through to the Fes road.
It was now after 11 am.



An hour or so up the road we stopped for a mint tea for me and a meal for the driver.

By now my emotions started to go from pessimism that we'll never make it then to optimism -maybe we will get there by kick off .

This went on for the next 3 hours.

Though the driver knew of Khourigba he'd probably never been there so my map, purchased earlier, was to prove useful.

But my decisions about the route lacked local knowledge and what might seem to be a reasonable road on the map (and in Europe) does not necessarily apply in Morocco , especially as it was raining.


So the driver checked with a local as we reached one town and following a slight diversion we got back on the best route.
Meanwhile I scanned the petrol gauge which seemed kind of low - this I mentioned but our man was confident we would be OK.

Sensing my concern about the time (he didn't have a watch) he pressed on and then gets stopped for speeding resulting in a 40 dirham (about £3.50) fine and further delay.

Up the road at the last town before Khourigba I say we won't make it - he says we will and asks a local policeman how far we have to go, answer 40 km.
It is now 2.25pm.

Fortunately it is a straight road and we must be going at 80 mph (though as the speedo doesn't work it is hard to be accurate)

We arrive in Khourigba and ask someone for the location of the ground - not too far.

A short drive , a short jog and I'm there 5 minutes before kick off.

Just time enough to take a few pictures and absorb the scene in the Phosphates stadium (guess what Khourigba produces)
The main group of home fans were opposite whilst the couple of thousand Wydad fans were squeezed into a small terrace curving behind the goal and in another section next to the main stand.


This felt like a typical game between a small club and much larger and more famous visitor.


Though actually Khourigba were higher placed in the league - not that it seemed like it on the balance of play. The red shirted Wydad team played more aggresively and were certainly well supported by their noisy fans.
The game was played at medium pace on a difficult pitch.


The result was determined, in added time at the end of the first half, by a controversial decision to award a goal as Doulyazal's chip was adjudged to have crossed the line.


Khourigba mostly struggled to create much apart from a few set peices and Wydad should have wrapped it up with a 2nd goal.
But one was enough.


I left, walking past various fans waiting outside and found my grand taxi for the return trip to Marrakech.
Which was not quite as fraught as the outward journey.
However I was glad not to be driving as most of the trip was in the dark and it needed keen eyesight to spot the odd horse & cart, cyclist or pedestrian along the unlit roads.
Again we stopped at a town familiar to the driver - tea for me and a break for him.

On the way out of town he noticed a gendarme this time not catching us for speeding but hitching a lift. After a discussion (and my agreement) the policeman and a colleague squeezed into the front seats.
It gave the driver someone to talk to (in Arabic) for the last hour or so and no doubt a friendly gendarme is a useful contact for any taxi driver.
It didn't stop him speeding, driving without a seatbelt or talking on his mobile whilst motoring along.

But live and let live.


more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/94410967

Cyprus January 2009

Anglo-friendly

Its warm, bright and sunny this time of year particularly in the coastal areas of Cyprus. At times it feels like a summers day in England. And there are plenty of Brits around either visiting or resident and they are well catered for with restaurants serving english breakfast, numerous pubs, The Sun and driving on the left.

Yes the resorts do have an out-of-season feel and in some places it seems like there is a restaurant for every tourist.
However there are interesting uncrowded historic sites to visit and (rocky) scenery to enjoy.

Not surprisingly the football can offer some Greek passion.

The Right wins from the left wing.

Omonia 0 APOEL 1

Close to 20,000 packed the GSP (National) stadium, some 5km outside of Nicosia, for this local derby. Cars and scooters parked where they could and probably in places they shouldn't.
Unusually for many European derbies this one had the stadium split with a side and an end for each set of fans. The left wing greens of Omonia against the right wingers of APOEL with their Greek flags.

Most seem to mix OK apart for the younger ultras who clashed at half time needing to be separated even further by the police. More worringly there had been some violence towards Turkish cypriots in Nicosia apparently caused by extremist football fans. Altogether 45 people, including police, were injured on the day.

Back to game and Omonia played very cautiously and it was APOEL who looked more likely in the first half.

All the action came at the end of the half as Ndikumana was sent off following a clash of heads. This triggered the fighting in the stands and some serious abuse for the referee.

APOEL scored their goal early in the 2nd , predictably down the left as Kaseke, the replacement right back, was unable to stop the bandaged Alexandrou from shoooting in off a defender.

Omonia eventually had to get forward and they did hit the bar with a neat chip by Aloneftis. But despite a prolonged period of injuries and delays (including one when the referee briefly took off the players following excess smoke being on the pitch)

The win meant APOEL joined Omonia at the top of the Cyprus Premier League and to give it (unneeded) added spice both teams are currently level on 19 titles apiece.

So a more than lively derby in a stadium (track-less for a change) that could generate some atmosphere.


Even in Larnaca.

AEK Larnaca 1 Alki Larnaca 1

A lower scale of derby in Larnaca , watched by some 2,500 in the Zenon stadium (with a part covered main stand , track and open seating opposite)

Lower key but not without some passion as AEK's Megahed (sic) was sent off after two yellow cards in quick succession - a coming together of heads and for blocking a defender.

AEK came out to attack, generally with long balls , and they eventually scored a contestable goal at the end of the 1st half. A cross/shot by Gonzalez seemingly taken over the line by the goalie.

At least 3 Alki players were booked for protesting the decision.

In the 2nd the apparent injustice galvanised the away team and they had the initiave , especially after the dismissal, scoring through Lima following a passing move.

AEK , second from bottom , were probably grateful to hold on for the point.


No breakthrough in Limassol.


AEL Limassol 0 APEP 0


The Tsirion, home to AEL and Apollon, is an attractive stadium with two similar two-tier covered stands curving around the pitch. On a coldish night nearly 3,000 turned out to see this stalemate between the home team and the pink shirted visitors from Pitsilia.
Not that the game was particluarly negative as we witnessed some decent attacking play but in the end not too many decisive chances.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/93003469

Portugal January 2009

Cold & Damp;  Even.

Vitoria Guimaraes 0 Estrela Amadora 0

Two low scoring middle of the table teams did what comes naturally - failed to score.

Some 50km or so from Porto is Guimaraes. It has an historic centre and a stadium that was used for the Euros.

On this Saturday evening most of snow had been cleared from the pitch and over 11,000 came out to see the game.


Generally Vitoria struggled to create chances and it was Amadora who had the stand-out player in Silvestre Varela. He sped down the left and produced more danger than anyone else.
But none of his crosses were converted.
Despite an extended period of added time and various corners Vitoria couldn't get the winner.

So the White Angels, the local fans, went away frustrated.



Class from the Azores.


Oliveirense 1 Santa Clara 2

An early, 11.15am, start for this second level (TV) game pitching bottom team Oliveirense against 2nd in the table Santa Clara.

The team from the Azores treated us to two superb goals as their extra class overcame a good effort by the home team.

The prolonged injury time, needed because of the time wasting by the away team, nearly produced an equaliser as Oliveirense didn't really look like a relegation threatened side.


At least it was bright & sunny for the 740 spectators.


Navy beats Academe.


Naval 2 Academica 1


From Oliveira de Azemeis to Figueira da Foz.


In an older style ground , with just over 2,000 present, this local derby did at least bring out a good number of away fans for my second game of the day.


Though the first half was not too exciting the second speeded-up as two defensive mistakes, one by the goalie, cost Academica the game.
Substitute Sougou did chip one in for the Coimbra team but amidst the typical stoppages and delaying tactics Naval managed to hold on for the win.



O Porto


Porto 0 Trofense 0


My third game of this Sunday took me back to my base in Porto.


The Dragao was reasonably well attended on this cold night especially by the away fans - some 1,000 of them. For Trofense this is their first season in the Portuguese top level.


Their team survived some scares as Porto could have scored in the first minute and no doubt then it would have been a different game. But later in the first half the away side held their own and settled into the contest.


Into the 2nd half and it became attack against defence as Porto dominated possession whilst Trofense produced the odd breakaway. We had Hulk headers but no goals.


Just like the other games the game ended with ultra time wasting and ultimately frustration for ex-league leaders Porto.



more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/91244785

Japan December 2008

compare and contrast - China and Japan.

Firstly there is a substantial cost difference. In Beijing a large meal and drinks is easily available for less than £7 whereas in Tokyo that gets you just a pint.

In Tokyo the local girls favour hot pants or short skirts as they walk , in characteristic pigeon toed fashion, the busy streets. Coloured hair is almost mandatory for younger people of both sexes.

The transport system of the greater Tokyo area is nothing short of awesome. Even after being around Shinjuku for two weeks I would still end up at a different station exit virtually every time.

In China they have buses to spare.

It would take a long time to describe and , not least, understand the Japanese rituals whereas in China there is a lot less ceremony.
That is also evident on the streets where it's every man for himself even if the lights are green when you are crossing the road. The Japanese wait patiently. They also queue in an ordered fashion.

For this visitor, apart from the football, the experience of visiting Hiroshima was especially memorable. The stark atomic bomb dome.

The incredibly moving Peace Memorial Museum with the story of Sadako Sasaki and the paper cranes , the boys tricycle, the shadow on the steps and the stories from the survivors.

Unbelievably within a couple of days of the bomb dropping some of the city trams were running again.

Greens go down.

Tokyo Verdy 0 Kawasaki Frontale 2

One down , one second.

Frontale brought plenty of blue-clad fans to fill most of the right hand goal at the Ajinomoto stadium in Tokyo.

Verdy had their support in green to the left but they would be disappointed as their side ended up relegated.

From the start Frontale had just a slim chance of winning the J-league , they went on the attack and nearly scored after 45 seconds. But Juninho (from Palmeiras rather than Middlesboro') missed as he would do on many other occassions.

Verdy were content to slow the game down and did so even more after they had a guy sent off. Juninho put the subsequent penalty wide of the goal.

Somehow the first half finished goalless.

After 65 minutes a neat move between the tricky Uruguyaun Renatinho and Juninho resulted in the former slotting the decisive goal.

A late second right foot strike from Nakamura sealed it in injury time.

Both sets of fans produced plenty of noise and displayed the usual impressive , colourful flags and banners.

Jubilo hold Veg.

Vegalta Sendai 1 Jublio Iwata 1

The first leg of the J league 1/2 play-off between third bottom Jublio of League 1 and 3rd top Vegalta from J-2.

Sendai is about 2 hours and a quarter on the Shinkansen going north of Tokyo. The home side played this one at their atmospheric Vurtec (Sendai) stadium a subway ride from the centre.

It was pretty much a sell out (19,000) as the home fans cranked up the noise , sang their songs and waved their numerous large flags. Jubilo brought a good number of their blue clad fans.

Ok its derivative but the locals do generate a decent atmosphere although it doesn't always correspond with the onfield play.

It would seem Sendai now have a difficult task as Jubilo in the end looked fairly comfortable though Vegalta did go in front through front man Brazilian Nadson as he was put clear to score decisively late on in the first half.

Jubilo got back on terms after 53 minutes when 19 year old midfielder Matsuura shot in - he could one to watch for the future.

After that Sendai generated some pressure and Ryang did hit the bar with a free kick but it was not enough to make another breakthrough.

Australians beat Kiwis.
Adelaide Utd 2 Waitakere Utd 1

played in the Tokyo National stadium this was the first game in this years Club World Cup.

For this observer a rather surprising number turned out (19,000) on a coldish night to watch in virtual silence. Only in brief moments do the crowd show their allegiance for the relative underdogs (Waitakere)

We had an opening ceremony that started dramatically and finished without much of a climax. Good light show and stirring music , a globe that levitated , the club colours displayed but a somewhat anticlimatic and relatively lenghty finish.

The game itself was characterised by set pieces - corners (Adelaide had 19) and free kicks.

Waitakere, totally against the run of play, scored after a free kick had been mishandled by the Adelaide goalie.

The Australians got back level soon after from a corner with a decisive header by Mullen.

It took a free kick late in the second galf and a glancing header by captain Dodd to settle the issue.

The Kiwis had battled hard and had the entertaining Fijian Krishna - a lively, speedy but unpredictable front runner.

Hot Tuzos.

Al Ahly (Egypt) 2 Pachuca (Mexico) 4 after extra time.

The second game in the Club World Cup also played at the Tokyo National (Olympic) stadium produced a higher quality match. This time there were noticeable groups of fans from both teams and, again, a higher than expected attendance , given as over 30,000.

Perhaps fortunate to go in 2-0 ahead at the break the Egyptians had scored from a deflected own goal after a Aboutrika break.

The second was totaly different - an excellent right wing move again involving Aboutrika again and Barakat who made the cross for Angolan Flavio to score high into the net.

The Pachuca coach thought later that they did not deserve to be behind and indeed they had missed some decent chances. But to this observer it seemed unlikely Pahuca would retrieve the sitauion after the break.

However an early 2nd half goal from a set peice gave them the confidence and Al Ahly were pressed back, made passing errors and seem to lose confidence (admitted by their Portuguese coach)

Argentinian Gimenez scored the free kick equaliser and Pachuca nearly finished it in normal time.

But in the extra period another Argentinian Alverez scored for 3-2 and a second from Gimenez completed the win.

So Pachuca will meet Ldu Quito and Al Ahly will play for fifth place.

It got cold and a brisk walk back to the assault on the senses that is Shinjuku was needed for me to warm up. A curry and some local Bon Rouge wine finished the evening.

I returned via Narita (and the Red Eye club - they make some decent cocktails) to China.

Back in Beijing the Olympic stadium area was busy with local tour parties many taking pictures of the impressive 'Bird's Nest'.

further pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/86527278

China November 2008

Yin & yang

Beijing is fairly cold , especially when the wind blows.

But sightseeing is OK in the bright sunshine.

There were some foreigners but it is mainly Chinese that are wandering around Tianamen Square and the Forbidden City. Among the impressive buildings are some pictures and text about the last emperor which made this observer wonder how the locals perceived that part of their history.

Food is everywhere and very good value though perhaps dumplings for breakfast might not suit everyone. It's interesting that a survey mentioned in Peking Daily said that the Chinese eat around 20% more than Westerners but are about 20% slimmer.

From Beijing I took the fast train to Ji'nan.

It's necessary to buy your ticket in advance, a process that can take a while.

But the train is fearsomely efficient.

In Ji'nan amongst the hectic streets there is a harmony to be had in the gardens and springs (its known as the 'city of springs')

The main city square is where the locals do their exercises and the roller skaters are out practising. Memorable and very amusing is seeing the very young kids, all decked out in their helmets, knee guards etc being chased by the older instructor as they try to circle the skating area whilst falling over and bumping into each other.

Kites are flown and people wander around in the bright sunny weather.

A scene that evokes the enjoyment of simpler pleasures.

And the families, usually just the one child, stroll around the springs area or the lake. One group want a photo with this correspondent.

The very young children don't have nappies - just a gap in their clothes.

In a day or so looking around Ji'nan I do not see one other European except in the hotels.

A smile and a nod is recommended and sometimes a halting conversation as a local endeavours to try out their English.

A draw enough.

Shandong Luneng 0 Guangzhou Pharmaceutical 0

The final games of the Chinese Super League season were played on a Sunday afternoon. Here in Ji'nan Shandong, leaders by two points, in the end just needed a draw to clinch their second title.



The game was close to a sell out , of around 40,000, with large queues outside sometime before kick off and plenty sitting in the aisles around me.


As would be expected the home side took the initiative though they only really upped the pace in the second half. Most of the time Guangzhou slowed the game down, played on the break, and wasted time at every opportunity. But they had the best chances - all missed badly.


Shandong did play some good football but lacked any cutting edge near goal. Though it didn't matter in this encounter they will surely struggle against teams with decent strikers.

The crowd celebrated as the players enjoyed their success by parading around the pitch.



So maybe a lot more shirts and scarves will be sold as few fans, bar a smallish groups of 'ultras', wore any colours.



more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/86526576

Empoli v Grosseto November 2008

Even.

Empoli 1 Grosseto 1

Equal near the top of Serie B these two teams stayed closed in this game.

Their goalscorers, Vannucchi for Empoli, and Sansovini for Grosseto both looked dangerous.

Around 5000 watched including a good contingent from Grosseto - filling most of two segments behind one goal.

It was cold but dry near the river Arno.

On a weekend when Italian football produced a possible new strategy (?) with Catania players dropping their shorts at a free kick to put off the Torino goalie.

This match included a moment when an Empoli player reversed the award of a throw-in after indicating that he was the last person to touch the ball before it went out.

My route took me back via Firenza before getting a Milan bound train and then a flight back to Berlin.

In the centre of Florence, not seen since Italia 90, those architectural masterpieces and the Uffizi gallery would inspire this visitor's heart and soul.

further pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/81709429

Germany November 2008

Good Stuff.


Union Berlin 2 Sandhausen 2


Union played this 3rd Liga game at the Jahn Sportpark whilst their regular home is being updated.
Around 6000 turned out and produced a decent atmosphere amongst which were a small group of away fans.

The stadium has a Turkish feel with the prominent red/yellow/green seats, not surprising since Turkiyemspor normally play there.

After taking a while to get going Union finally developed some pressure and Younga-Mouhani nodded in from a corner.

The second half proved very watchable as Sandhausen equalised through Pinto and went ahead after sub. Ozturk (appropriately) found space to score.

It took a goal area scramble for centre back Stuff to poke home the leveller.


Obasi has the last word.



Hoffenheim 3 Wolfsburg 2

Another team playing at a temporary home. Up and coming Hoffenheim won this one at the home of Waldorf Mannheim as they await their new stadium being completed.


As has been the case the game was a sell out with many in the surrounding area (eg Heidelberg) keen to see Bundesliga matches.


Hoffenheim despite their critics do have a attacking team though forwards Ba and Obasi weren't so prominent as when they played at the 2nd level.

Top League scorer Ibisevic scored early on, helped by a deflection.

But Wolfsburg came back and another leading scorer Brazilian Grafite produced a trick and found space to score for 1-1.

A slightly dubious free kick awarded to the home team allowed Carlos Eduardo to show off his left foot skills for 2-1. Dzecko bundled in the second equaliser, still before the break.

Just one goal in the second half, Obasi beating the offside line to score neatly.


Hoffenheim finished strongly and denied any Wolfsburg 3rd equaliser.


This was an enjoyable watch.



Big beats small.

Ingolstadt 0 Nuremberg 3


The small Ingolstadt arena was ausferkauft (10,500) as the big city visitors brought plenty of fans.

Fortunately it stayed dry (but cold) as there is not much cover at the ground. What there is was mainly for the VIPs in the main stand and behind the goal.

Most fans shared the side an open terrace with Nuremberg bringing plenty of their ultras.


Somehow the game never really caught fire as Lemos missed a great chance when blasting over an empty goal for Ingolstadt.
That proved costly as the away side, with better possession, eventually led after Boakye did well down the right and his cross was deflected in for an own-goal.
Despite Ingolstadt trying to play their football der Club scored two late goals to seal a convincing win in the end.


For this visitor it was a convenient short walk to the station and a regional train back to Augsburg.




Terry the Redeemer


Germany 1 England 2


Back in Berlin sightseeing was just about manageable in the cold damp weather.
This time it included the Brandenburg Gate, the Holocaust memorial, Checkpoint Charlie and the well presented and thoughtful Jewish museum.

Myself and some friends ate at an Italian restaurant where a good reception was evident especially whilst we have a well respected Italian as our coach.


In the game England carried on their progress with impressive performances from non-regulars especially Agbonlahor and an improved Wright Phillips (who hit the post)


John Terry redeemed himself by scoring the winning header. He had been responsible for the German equaliser after delaying to allow Helmes to score.

Upson had put England ahead after the goalie had failed to deal with a cross.


Generally Germany were moderate and got whistles from the home fans.


In contrast it was encouraging that England, with their various replacements, had played well and are continuing the evident progress under Capello.


further pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/81709429

Greece November 2008

Che sera sera.

Panserraikos 1 OFI Heraklion 2

The bus takes around 1 hour twenty minutes to get to Serres from Thessaloniki.
And Serres has a nice central area with plenty of bars and restaurants where you can enjoy the ambience.

The stadium is a convenient couple of mintues walk from the bus terminal. So its an easy trip for a late afternoon game.

Its a smallish, compact ground with open , red seats and a main covered main stand. OFI brought a group of around 40 fans - some apparently from Thessaloniki.

The home fans , the Che Guevara group, had their flags and as is the style divided into two groups to chant their songs.

After an even, tight, first half Panserraikos took an early lead in the more entertaining second half after Bangoura benefited from the goalie's hesitation. But OFI came back to score two quick goals from the left foot of Popovic.

The home fans were naturally frustrated as Panserraikos failed to create too much and bottom team OFI had a very good away win.

I stolled back to get the 7pm bus to Thessaloniki and indulged in a couple of ouzos.


Next day in Thessaloniki , whilst Athens was gearing up for Panathinaikos v Olympiakos, I saw two Sunday games :-


Kalamaria edges Kallithea.

Apollon Kalamarias 2 Kallithea 1

In the Greek Beta Ethnki (2nd level) played in Apollon's ground in Kalamaria - a 15 minute bus ride from the centre of Thessaloniki.

The ground has seen better days - especially the crumbling terracing opposite the main stand.

The main stand itself was were all the fans watched, around 500, including a smallish but enthusiastic group of 'Rossoneri' local fans.

They saw Apollon generally control things taking a two goal lead and holding Kallithea to few chances and a late consolation.

Its a shortish bus ride and a 15 minute walk to the large Kaftanzoglu Stadium.


First win.


Iraklis 1 Levadiakos 0

Back to the Super League to see Iraklis win their first game of the season.

It was sealed by an early Kone goal as a corner somehow reached him at the far post.

Levadiakos struggled to get much change from a solid home defence . They had a man sent off near the end as Iralkis held out with too much trouble.
In a 27,000 capacity stadium under 3,000 turned out on a fairly cold evening.


Back in the centre of Thessaloniki the bars and restaurants turned on the external heaters as the weather got colder and the well wrapped up locals strolled along the promenade.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/79471989

Israel October/November 2008

Ra'anana it is.

Hapoel Ra'anana 3 Hapoel Kfar Saba 2.



In the 2nd level of Israeli football this was a local derby played in a small ground in a town near Herzliya , north of Tel Aviv.
Around 400 saw it , fairly evenly divided in the main seating area between the greens and the reds.


The 'green vein' fans of Kfar Saba brought a drum and some large flags. They would go home disappointed.



It was a fluctuating game played in a very pleasant conditions of around 20 degrees.



First Kfar lead then Ra'anana equalised before the break.


The home team then got in front , Kfar replied amongst much celebration after which Ra'anana had a man sent off.



But the ten men had the last word following a left wing break and cross shot.

This being Friday afternoon my main concern was to get the last bus back to Tel Aviv - which I made OK arriving back in a nearly deserted central bus station just after sunset.

Dele done good.



Arrive early in Netanya and you can wander along the beach, improve your sun tan and enjoy a decent capucchino.
I shook the sand off my shoes and strolled to their stadium for :-




Maccabi Netanya 2 Bnei Yehuda 2



An Israel Premier League clash of top against bottom - not that it seemed like it.



Netanya have an old ground (in fact older than the state of Israel) hemmed into a residential area of this seaside city to the north of Tel Aviv.
Next year they are expected to move to a new stadium , presumably with the assistance of finances from their affluent German owner.

Meanwhile the Sar-Tov provides an old style setting with the fans very near to the pitch and ready to celebrate with the players as the goals go in.
Bnei Yehuda had their orange clad fans behind one goal whilst the home fans, in yellow , had their flags along the larger side.
It was another very enjoyable contest though probably not for the famous Netanya coach , one Lothar Matthaus.

His side did take the lead from a deflected Tazemeta header but were pegged back early in the second half by another header - from Baldut.



Bnei Yehuda then gained the initiative and after some Pedro Galvan trickery Atar was able to turn and score to give the away team the lead.


Netanya did equalise, again from a cross , nodded home by sub. Yampolski.
Bnei Yehuda goalie Dele Aiyenugba had a generally commanding game and he had the final say, following the award of a dubious looking penalty, saving Shechter's shot to preserve the 2-2 scoreline.



In about forty five minuites I was back in Tel Aviv via a brisk Sherut.

Beitar bit.

Many visitors come to Jerusalem to sample the history and the religious experience.
But if you are a football fan then go to see the atmosphere at the Teddy stadium.

Your correspondent joined the Teddy boys (and girls), some 15000, to watch :-

Beitar Jerusalem 0 Hapoel Tel Aviv 2.

Even though its 3/4 quarters built the ground is impressive and both sets of fans generated some serious noise for this Premier League game.

Beitar scorned various chances , especially the luckless Itzahki who contrived to miss one from 5 yards.

They paid for it later as Samuel Yeboah scored two in the last 6 minutes to secure the victory.

All three of these matches provided excellent entertainment.

That combined with great November weather and some passionate fans made for a enjoyable trip to the promised land.

more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/78159086

Germany October 2008

Pens for Thurk.

Augsburg 2 FSV Frankfurt 2

In coldish, damp conditions a very respectable 15,800 turned out on a late Tuesday afternoon to see FC A draw with lowly FSV.

The stadium is large , mainly open to the elements, with plenty of terracing. Next year they will move to a (presumably) more comfortable new stadium.

A couple of free kicks by Werner caused problems for the visitors but they managed not to concede. It took a penalty by Thurk for FC A to go in front. He would get another, in similar fashion, in the second half.

In between Shapourzadeh had got a possibly dubious reply and he provided FSVs 2nd. with a great cross nodded in by Mokhtari.

Despite Barletta being sent off near the end FSV held on OK. Their small group of fans probably went home reasonably happy.

Two by Two.

SpVgg Unterhaching 0 Stuttgart II 2

A small team in a Munich suburb played a big team's 'reserves' in the 3rd Liga.

Unterhaching have a reasonable ground for their fan base - I think I saw most of the 'ultras' in a station bar before the game and the terracing at the left hand end had no trouble accomodating the 4 fans supporting the away team.

Zillner of Unterhacing started and finished the game by hitting the woodwork.

In the meantime his side mostly controlled possession but had difficulty producing the killer pass.

League top scorers Stuttgart won with a header from a corner and from a somewhat fortunate penalty given when a defender handled whilst jumping to stop a free kick.

It was cold.

more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/78154586

Poland October 2008

Cold & Even.

Polonia Warsaw 1 Cracovia 1

One of three games in the Polish 'Premier'.

In a small stadium, a walkable distance from the recreated old town, some 3500 or so braved the wind, rain and cold. There were only a handful of away fans.

Polonia were top before this game but played more like a middle of the table team.

Cracovia scored early through Kasuba after a nice left wing drive by the tall Milosevic.

The home ultras brought out their flags and got the noise going.

Five minutes into the second half a decisive Lato free kick secured the equaliser.

After that there were some near things at both ends but no more goals.

Nice Centre.

Slask Wroclaw 2 Arka Gdynia 1

Wroclaw gets less tourists than Krakow but it does have a very pleasant central area.

From which it takes around 35 minutes to get to the Slask Wroclaw stadium.

The ground does include some temporary style stands. At one end the 50 or so Arka fans congregated for a while before disappearing with about half an hour to go.

The home ultras got the banners up around the periphery and started the hands up clapping - even the press in the main stand joined in.

This was another hard fought game. Slask went in front after about 15 minutes and were rather surprised when Arka equalised with a Anderson header on the stroke of half time.

Top scorer Szweczuk got the winner.

Intimidating.

Ruch Chorzow 2 Lech Poznan 0

Take the train to this one and you arrive at Chorzow Batory station in the midst of the somewhat intimidating home fans. They cluster around the shops and amongst the trees before kick-off.

Most wear blue but many also have red - the colours of 'partner' team Widzew Lodz.

A good crowd of 10,000 saw this with around 400 fans from Poznan isolated at the left hand end.

The stadium has a striking main stand perhaps reminiscent of Springfield Park, Wigan. The rest is typically circular ends with about 10 rows of seats all round. The leading home ultras are to the right. They produce the flares (see pics) and coordinate the chants.

Ruch got the goals in the first half and tended to back off later in the game. Lech didn't manage to get too close apart from a late scramble.

The home fans seem to disperse happily enough as I waited for my return train to Zabrze.

more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/75230366

Belarus v England October 2008

Legs.


Belarus - Minsk


From Sofia via Berlin and Vilnius to the Belarus capital.

After the conviviality of a restaurant in Sofia to an Irish bar near the Berlin Zoo for some (middle-of-the-road) music and a couple of cocktails.

Up early for a flight to Vilnius - 'Double Coffee' lunch and some Internet browsing.

Then a four/five train uneventful ride to Minsk amongst some compatriots.

Where it seemed kind of communist-lite.
Though the government does control the heating - the availability of gas etc is restricted until a specified date which means if it suddenly gets cold, unless you have independent control of your energy, many do suffer.
The weather is cool , some rain but eventually mainly dry .

Wide streets , friendly people and without the feeling of a security culture as in Russia.

There are some good museums, parks, decent architecture and characteristically attractive 'scenery'.

But its a struggle , without local knowledge, to identify good restaurants and bars as their presence is not identified the same way as in the West.

Though McDonald's does not have that problem.


Convincing.

Belarus 1 England 3

Some difficulty for our guys in the first half as the locals opened some spaces in the England defence for a period but in the 2nd we had it well under control , helped by an early Rooney goal.


It was another strong away result against a team who could pass it around.

Heskey enjoying a renaissance, was spirited , Walcott pacy as expected and Gerrard got a Liverpool -like cracker.

Rooney , spikey and back to his best.

The uncovered, centrally located stadium was nearly full except for the upper tier above the main stand - restricted because of safety concerns.

The atmosphere was not as intimidating as Croatia (for instance) - the Belarussians generally not having too high expectations for their team.

It looked like there was no spectator problems.

more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/75227628

Bulgaria v Italy October 2008

Predictable.

Bulgaria 0 Italy 0

Fairly predictable result ?

The world champions didn't have too many scares as the home team generally struggled to overcome the well organised Italian defence.

Berbatov looked isolated, he won some headers but seemed somewhat casual as is his style.

Italy threatened with their slow build-up followed by driven crosses. Often Di Rossi looked the man most likely to create a goal.

They did enough to get the away draw.

The Levski was nearly full and the home crowd enthusiastic.

The unruly reaction came as the more right-wing Italian fans showed their affiliations. The police moved in and the trouble was quelled reasonably quickly though I'm unsure as to what happened away from the stadium.

Friendly.

Sofia - A city where you can enjoy yourself with the locals especially at the weekend as they eat late and indulge themselves. Many speak English.

This correspondents experience was of meeting outgoing Bulgarians , visiting some interesting museums in a compact city that has a certain buzz about it.

Recommended. Though smoking is still allowed in restaurants and bars.

more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/75224168

Italy, Austria & Switzerland October 2008

Udinese 0 Borussia Dortmund 2 (Udinese won 4-3 on penalties)

In the UEFA Cup this was nearly a terrific comeback by Borussia. They had over 2000 fans, and could have had lots more if the Italians had allocated further tickets in time.

The stadium, a venue in Italia 90, was nowhere near full.

The locals sang their impressive song and produced a typically effective Italian-style 'presentation' prior to kick-off.

But as you would expect Udinese tended to sit back and see if the germans could create anything.

Generally they didn't much but did score twice at strategic times - at the end of each half - and both by Hungarian Hajnal.

Into extra time and no change before penalties decided the outcome - sadly for Hajnal his shot was saved.

Udinese just scraped the win with Lucovic scoring the clinching penalty.

As I walked the half an hour or so back to my hotel I stopped at a nearby Irish bar , enjoyed a pint and saw amongst the locals two Udinese players - drinking (coke) , relaxing with their friends and not being overly bothered.
A pleasant end to the day for most.

By train it takes over four hours to get to Leoben in Austria through some typical scenery.

The train was late but made up most of the delay once into Austria.

Leoben 3 Lustenau 2 in the Austrian '1st league'

Constant rain and cold to endure.

But it was a watchable, even contest between teams near the bottom of the table.

In a smallish stadium with a reasonable sized main stand and an open side opposite and not much at either end. Only 200 were there to see it.

The home side just edged it with the winner some 8 minutes before the end.

It took a very brisk walk, a couple of weiss beer and a weiner schnitzel (what else) to warm up this traveller.

Onto Graz , and a better day weather-wise.

In the very pleasant Hauptplatz this visitor enjoyed some 'sturm' a wine based drink whilst the locals mingled in the sunshine amongst the stalls . A violinist and guitarist made the moment even better.

Meanwhile another Sturm set about their opponents for :-

Sturm Graz 3 Austria Karnten 0

In the Austrian bundesliga , at the UPC Arena (ex Arnold Schwarzenegger stadium - likely the man himself was not present being somewhere warmer i guess)

The neat, compact, stadium was mostly full (almost 13,000) to see Sturm eventually overcome Karnten easily enough with one particularly cracking strike on the turn by Beichler.

Before that it had been a fairly even first half with few chances before a looping shot by Muratovic beat the goalie.

And in the second Sturm got on top.

Karnten had some enthusiastic support from their smallish group of fans whilst Sturm had their black & white support packed behind the right hand goal - they kept up a good level of noise most of the time.

From Graz to Linz via Selzthal through that typically impressive scenery in bright sunshine with the local, red capped, stationmasters coming out to greet the train as it passed.

LASK Linz 1 Altach 3

An older style stadium , with curved roofing, a track and a gap at the left hand end.

Linz had their 'ultras' opposite with no sign of any away fans in the 6,000 crowd.

Linz had a group of Croatians in their squad whilst Altach had Brazilian Ailton (ex-Werder Bremen etc)

This was not a good day at the office for Linz even though top scorer Mayrleb had equalised an early strike by Konrad.

In the second half Altach went ahead again through Koch and somewhat inevitably Ailton slotted the third. He should have scored more.

Lastly a 9 hour train ride, involving 5 changes , to Thun in Switzerland.

Thun 4 Gossau 1

In the Swiss Challenge League , Thun played three up front and despite Gossau getting one back won convincingly enough.

Their ground is a little quirky with a miniscule stand on one side next to an entrance displaying the Olympic rings. Partial low level terracing curves around.

Two larger stands are on the other side.

Gossau did have a smallish group of fans with the usual flags and the home fans did turn up in larger than expected (to this viewer) numbers , some 2800 in total.

For Thun Scarione scored from a free kick and Cattaruzzi got two , sub Moser another with only captain Knopfel replying for the visitors.

Fortunately the rain had stopped as I walked back to my hotel via the picturesque town centre.

A Long Island Ice Tea was a welcome end to the evening.

To see more pictures :- http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/72215696

Greece September 2008

Larissa 0 Skoda Xanthi 1

An hour and a quarter by train or so from Thessaloniki is Larissa where it was wet, the rain falling all day before this Greek Super League game.

An older style stadium, with mainly open seats and with a track around, this ground will eventually make way for an upgraded version compliant with UEFA rules.

A smallish crowd of around 2,000 including the Larissa 'Monsters' ultra group saw their team succumb to an early header by Nigerian striker Agali. Xanthi continued to be dangerous from set pieces and they generally defended well as Larissa increased the pressure in the second half.

Despite making substitutions Larissa , with an international line-up including Nobby Solano, couldn't break through.

Back in Thessaloniki a bus ride out towards Euosmos finds the basic ground of Agrotikos Asteras. They met Atromitos , recently relegated, in a Beta Ethniki 2nd level game.

The stadium is typically hemmed-in by apartments (with the usual free viewers) and comprises two sides of mostly open seats. But some 700 watched , in better weather, as on a bare pitch Atromitos eventually prevailed 1-0.

The away side should have lead in the first half as they hit the 'woodwork' a couple of times and had more possession. It took a very late injury time goal to decide the game following a
throw-in, scored by substitute Domi.
In the last minutes Atromitos had a man dismissed and a linesman seemed to be hit by a missile but the game ended with a home defeat.

Whilst back in the trendy seaside bars the locals chatted, smoked their cigarettes, and drank their drinks.

for more pics see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/68545148

Netherlands & Belgium September 2008

AGOVV Apeldoorn v Omniworld (2-2)

A small blue/white styled ground with plenty of cover - needed on this evening as it was raining.

There were not too many away fans and a limited number of home 'ultras' watching as botttom of the table Omniworld benefited from home errors to take a two goal lead.

Dennis Wise lookalike, and AGOVV captain, Martens had looked dangerous and it was his left wing crosses that allowed sub. Bokila to score one and make the second and equalising goal.

In Belgium for :- Olympic Charleroi 1 FC (Molenbeek) Brussels 3

Plenty of terraces at Olympic's ground - not too far from the more famous Sporting Charleroi stadium. Again the rain came down.

Molenbeek brought a decent number of fans and their team won this one convincingly enough.

They caused the home team plenty of problems especially Sonogo , Matumona and Eale in attack. For the ageing, though still looking fit, Toni Brogno - the game passed him by.

The away side were three up before Olympic pulled back a consolation and though they had some pressure near the end it was a comfortable win for the team from the capital.

later the same day :- Excelsior Mouscron 4 AA Gent 2

Top of the 1st league table Excelsior kept their position with a well controlled win over AA.

Impressive striker Ouali got three and made the other.

Gent were better in the second with the substitutions made by coach Preud'homme capitalising on some Excelsior complacency and later edginess with Oulafade getting two back.

But the home side were good value for the win. The 6000 or so made for a decent atmosphere though the AA fans were clearly very frustrated with what they witnessed.

Namur 2 Lierse 2

Thankfully a better day for this game and for those involved in the fun runs in the city on the Sunday afternoon.

The Stade Communal hosted a good contingent from Lierse probably comprising more than the home support in this smallish ground near the river.

Namur took the lead , got pegged back by a nice effort from Bojovic and lead again through Benayen who made amends for his earlier penalty miss.

But in the second half, after Namur had a man sent off, Lierse dominated with their extra height eventually paying off - Bojovic again - this time heading the equaliser.

Lastly a Monday night fixture in Almere near to Amsterdam ...

Omniworld 1 Cambuur Leeuwarden 0

In the 'city of the future' the relatively recently created Omniworld (apparently their origins can be traced back to DWS Amsterdam - who I saw draw with Chelsea in October 1968 in the Fairs Cup) played Cambuur in the Mitsubishi Forklift Stadium.

Nearly 2,000 watched amongst which were a small group from Leeuwarden.

It probably would have been a better game had Zeefuik converted an easy chance from a goalie error in the first half. But it took a Wilco Krimp header to decide the game with fifteen minutes remaining.

for more pics see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/67467777

Spain & Croatia September 2008

Its a bit warm for the human statues in Las Ramblas but i guess they make reasonable money from the fascinated tourists.

For the England fans its a re-visit to Montjuic to play Andorra and the expectation of a better performance than last time.

At least the weather is better with just a shower beforehand. This writer dodged the rain by

visiting the impressive Catalunya Art Museum , near to the stadium.

Andorra 0 England 2

Somewhat deja vu , goalless at the break and England going off to some booing. It could have been a lot different if the chances carved out by Walcott in the early minutes had resulted in a goal. But they didn´t and it was left to Joe Cole to score two at the beginning of the 2nd to secure the win. As usual Andorra never got close.

The real test will come next Wednesday in Zagreb - difficult to say how England will fare but at the moment a draw would look like an excellent result.

Not many locals would have been at this game , more enjoyed the musical fountains display on Montjuic (or the Coldplay concert)

Back in Las Ramblas the tourists and fans mingled - this mingler preferred the local ambience down the side streets were you could watch Spain play Bosnia in comfort whilst sipping a caipirinha.

An hour or so by train is Girona. Where the old town is relatively quiet and atmospheric on this Sunday afternoon.

Girona 3 Alicante 0

Over 5000 watched together with some on the grassy banks above the partially refurbished stadium. This was Girona's first home game back in the second division for quite a while.

Alicante stayed close up until about the last 10 minutes. They had a man sent off in the second half, somewhat harshly and did create some chances chiefly through Ismael.

But the main man was Gabri who had scored the first and completed the victory by scoring the final goal.

Girona thus top the division , albeit with only two matches played.

From Girona via Barcelona for a stop-over in Berlin and in particular the Kreuzberg area of the city where a Persian meal plus a caipirinha went down well.

Germanwings to the Croatian capital. Its warm and sunny in Zagreb ready for the England game.

First take in some culture - the Technical museum and the Naive Art Museum featured this time.

Croatia 1 England 4

So if nil-nil was considered a good result beforehand what about a 4-1 away win ?

The locals generated some atmosphere in the un-improved Maksimir Stadium. But England ran out easy winners. They'd quietened the crowd with Walcott's rather fortunate first goal and survived some scares in the first half.

Whilst in the dramatic second period , after Robert Kovac got sent off for his elbow on Joe Cole's head , England put together some impressive moves with Rooney usually involved. Walcott did the rest.

Maybe we had above average luck and Croatia had a bad night at the office. But it will give us great confidence for the rest of the World Cup campaign.

With no reports of any trouble as well presumably even the Bad Blue Boys had an early night.

for more pics see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/67463210

Switzerland August 2008

From the somewhat crowded shores of the Med. to the tranquillity of Switzerland .

Just the 8 hours of driving to get there.

And in a late August weekend it was busy , especially through the Saint Gotthard tunnel.

But calming for sure to be in Suhr, near to Aarau.

Within walking distance is the smallish ground of FC Aarau got to via a quiet road, with stream alongside, past pleasant houses.

Aarau o Basel 2

Tranquil nearby - but not behind the goal amongst the Basel ultras as they dispensed with their shirts and lit the flares and set about creating the atmosphere and rhythm that was sustained pretty much through the whole game.

A sell-out crowd saw their team , still managed by Christian Gross, get the better of the generally predictable home side.

Scott Chipperfield, sometime Australian, bossed midfield in a style reminiscent of a left footed Paul Scholes.

He scored the first just before half time after a defensive error.

Basel wapped it up in the second half and consolidated top spot in the Swiss Super League.

Not too far to Neuchatel and :-

Neuchatel Xamax 2 Vaduz 2

The re-built Stade de la Maladiere is coloured mostly red and represents a pleasant medium size stadium next to the lake.

Inside there was nothing like the atmosphere of yesterday though as the home ultras expressed their annoyance at the recent performances (no home wins so far) in a third-full ground.

Vaduz dominated midfield in the first half and went on to score twice before the interval.

But Xamax got it together better in the second with sub. Rak and Nigerian Brown getting them a point.

It didn't do much to assuage their supporters criticism.

This visitor finished the trip via a slow drive to Basel through the very attractive Jura mountains region. Then returning home from the slightly less attractive Luton airport.

for more pics see http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/65017730