football travels worldwide

Spain December 2011

2011-12-08T04:48:00.000-08:00

A three game visit to southern Spain including seeing Granada defeat Real Zaragoza in La Liga.

Elche 3 Barcelona II 0 9,487

Elche have a good sized two-tier stadium decked out in the club colours of green and white.
For this match against Barca ‘reserves’ there was a reasonable turnout to fill most of the lower tiers.

Actually it was more Barcelona lite than regular Barcelona as they struggled to create chances despite the inevitable well honed passing game that no doubt pervades every level of the Catalan club.

Two strikes from Danish forward Bille Nielsen and a neat left footed free kick from full back Edu Albacar and Elche had it done by half time.
The home side were ultimately stronger and more direct than the visitors.

The result meant Elche moved up to second in the Segunda league.

I strolled back to my hotel and chose a substantial Asian buffet whilst watching Spain play Argentina in the Davis Cup.

Ejido 0 Melilla 2 300

Ejido are rock bottom of their group in Segunba B (3rd level) and they had a hard time making progress against a solid Melilla defence.
The away team had scored early after a defensive error and they added a header just before the break - both scored by the useful striker no.9, Chota.

This early kickoff was played in bright sunny conditions though it did get cooler later as I watched from the main stand (with views to the mountains)

The ground has open seating opposite and at one end, where there were a couple of small local ultra groups.
The ‘African’ visitors did have some support and Ejido were particularly egged-on by an elderly cheerleader who constantly berated the officials, all to no avail.

So I drove on towards Granada.

Granada 1 Real Zaragoza 0 22,000

I had planned to see three games on this Sunday but due to some rental car trouble going over the Sierra Nevadas I never made it to my planned second game, at Jaen.
Instead I settled for a double with the late game in Granada.

Where the home side secured an important win against one of their fellow strugglers.

Nigerian Ighalo scored the winner from close range just before the break after a period of home dominance.
The visitors did sustain some late pressure giving the home side, and their fans, some concerns but Granada held on for the three points.

It left Zaragoza bottom of La Liga but judging by this game both teams may well struggle during the rest of the season.

The home supporters, in what seemed like a sellout crowd, provided decent noise led by a couple of ultras groups.

The ground itself does somewhat resemble a real life subbuteo stadium with its three smallish tiers plus the addition of temporary looking filled-in corners.
However it is fairly cosy, at least in the ‘main stand’ which helped on a cold December night in Granada.

Tired after a late finish I had an early night.

more pictures at http://pod46.photobox.com/album/1023703422

Brazil October/November 2011

2011-11-11T10:10:00.000-08:00

Seven games in Brazil including the Recife derby, a great game in Bahia and a Serie D match in Juiz de Fora.

Hot & steamy Recife.

Nautico 2 Sport Recife 0 17,164

A typically breathless local derby played in the Aflitos stadium.

The match not only satisfied local pride for the ecstatic home fans, it also helped to move Nautico towards Serie A and dented the hopes of Sport doing the same.

Two first half goals, the second an excellent solo run and shot, did it assisted by a red card for a Sport defender in the second half.
The game was always frenetic despite the hot weather.

Another feature was some long range shooting some by the dangerous Sport no.10.

The compact stadium is surrounded by apartment blocks from which numbers of fans watched the game.
Most of the home ultras were at the right hand end with around 800 or so away fans in a section to the left.

According to the local paper there were over 900 police keeping order - which went off OK as far as I could tell bar the chanting and fireworks.
So the red and whites beat the red and blacks - N A U T I C O.

I took a taxi back to my hotel in Boa Viagem and enjoyed some beer and steak near the beach.

Cool and rainy Curitiba.

Coritiba 3 America (MG) 1 10,962

My third visit to a stadium in Curitiba and each of the three is worth seeing.

Atletico´s being a rareish example of a European style ground in Brazil and a location for 2014 World Cup games.
Parana´s home, near the old railway station, was a location for 1950 World Cup games.
And the Couto Periera with its mix of three tiers and a smaller side suitably decked out in dark green is another worth visiting.

The match started well enough for bottom of the table America, backed by a handful of fans, as the speedy Kempes shot home left footed.
But soon after Coritiba equalised and they went ahead with an excellent move finished by Davi and involving the useful Marcos Aurelio.

It was a particularly torrid evening for the away defenders as they tried to control the tricky home winger Rafinha who had scored the first and was a constant threat.
He effectively caused the sending off of defender Gilson later in the 2nd half.

A header from a corner sealed a comfortable win for the home side and left America further adrift as the Serie A lanterna.

The match was played in cool rainy conditions in quite a contrast to Recife.

Via Florianopolis to Criciuma.

Tigrish.

Criciuma 1 Portuguesa 1 9,535

Portuguesa would have a little longer before being crowned Serie B champions after being held to a draw by Criciuma.
They brought 50 or so fans from Sao Paulo who made the longish journey south (not quite comparable with the 30,000+ Corinthians fans expected to make a similar length of trip to watch their team play America (MG) in Uberlandia the next weekend)

The visitors started slowly giving possession to the home side straight from the kick-off.
Soon after Criciuma scored from a corner and their speedy forwards went hard at the league leaders.

It took Portuguesa about 20 minutes to begin to take control going very close near the end of the first period.
About half way through the second 45 minutes they equalised, sub.Cleiton poking home a left wing cross.

Then we had a pulsating finish as the Criciuma Tigers poured forward in the last few minutes playing with maybe five strikers and a ´rush goalie´.

They had missed a number of chances to win and despite the late scrambles just failed to get the decider.
The atmosphere was also excellent, reminiscent of Argentina, in a European style, rectangular, covered stadium.

I walked back to my hotel and enjoyed a bottle of vinho tinto whilst watching some Copa Sudamericana on TV.

Late.

Vitoria 5 Salgueiro 1 26,216

From Coritiba back to Florianopolis then a flight, via Sao Paulo, to Salvador.

Where I revisited the Barradao to see Vitoria move up into the Serie B top four.

They never had much trouble with about to be relegated Salgueiro who only had a near post header just before half time as consolation.

The stadium is certainly one of the harder places to get to particularly on a busy Friday night.

I started out allowing plenty of time but the combination of the first taxi driver taking me in the wrong direction and the second being stuck in horrendous traffic pretty much the whole way made it a frustrating evening.
As you near the stadium the roads become increasingly potholed, narrower and jammed with cars.

I finally made to the stadium by about 8.35 (for a 8.30 kick-off) but with hundreds outside I didn´t make inside until about ten minutes later, by then Vitoria were two up.

However once there the stadium, being a natural amphitheatre, together with their excellent ultras makes it a superb atmosphere.

I did see Vitoria score their third and two more in the second half against a well beaten visiting side.
The crowd, a season record for Vitoria, were allowed into the away section as Salgueiro (a very small club) only seemed to have a few directors as supporters.

At the end I managed to work my way out the ground and after a struggle got a taxi back to Rio Vermelho were some beer and chicken and chips helped me to relax.

Fantastic.

Bahia 4 Sao Paulo 3 31,230

In this one Bahia, the other main team in Salvador, came back from 3-1 down for a famous victory against one of the big teams in the Brazilian league.

And how the fans enjoyed the experience.

Sao Paulo scored two picture book goals, first Wellington lobs it over a defender and volleys in for 1-0. Then the excellent Lucas slams in a 25 yarder.

But in the second half, with sub Junior making a difference, a spirited Bahia team came back to deny the big names.
Coach Joel Santana whose other substitutions were criticised by the fans was completely vindicated.
The result may have been different without some great saves by the home goalie particularly from a Luis Fabiano effort.

Bahia scored from left wing moves to get them back to 3-3 and an own goal by an Sao Paulo defender deflecting in another cross with ten minutes left took most of the crowd into delirium.

This time my travels went well albeit on a quieter Saturday in Salvador as I arrrived about two hours before the 7pm kick off.
So I was able to sample the atmosphere outside and when seated amongst the socios watched the fans arrive.
The ground is three sided, horseshoe shaped, with views to the Pitaucu wilderness beyond the right hand goal (with its elevated scoreboard)

The rest of the ground is mostly open terracing with the well supported away contingent in part of the side opposite.
Though the atmosphere was dampened by the visitors scoring first it had become ecstatic by the end.

I negotiated a quick exit and got a taxi back to the hotel for some red wine and an early night.

As I had a 4am start to get my flight to Rio.

Easy.

Tupi (MG) 3 Oeste (SP) 1 7,416

This was a Serie D semi-final 2nd leg with Tupi 3-0 up from the first encounter.

And the home side went further in front on a very bumpy pitch after about 14 minutes as they cut through the Oeste defence with ease.
A similar strike folllowed on the half hour and that was pretty much it.

A third involving a nice move and cross from the right - put home by the no.9 had the outcome decided by half time.
A very limited and demoralised Oeste just had a header from a corner as consolation.

I´d arrived early enough to sample some local wine in a pleasant restaurant close to the stadium overlooking the valley below.
The ground, in a wooded area, is substantial and again 3-sided with massive curved terracing.

So plenty of room for the best crowd of the year with no away fans visible.

Many of the home fans were listening to Serie A games on their radios - highlighted by the cheers as the Flamengo goals went in.
The city clearly has many Rio club fans judging by the number of Flamengo/Fluminense and Vasco shirts being worn and there is also a Fla fan shop.

So a lower key game especially given the score but it was another large Brazilian stadium to admire.

Back in the centre of Juiz de Fora I had a couple of beers, a salad and a churro.
The locals mingled amongst the street vendors.

Juiz de Fora is a 3 hour bus ride from Rio through some stunning scenery with superb views of the wooded mountains and valleys.
The central area of the city feels friendly and vibrant (though not so much on a Sunday evening)

As always outside of the centre there are the ever present favelas dotted around the valley and you see the odd person sleeping on the street.

During a free day I visited the small but well laid out railway museum connected to the impressive old station noting that they had more passenger trains through here in the 19th century than in the 21st (none so far)

Deserted.

Duque de Caxias (RJ) 1 Vila Nova (GO) 1 72

This match was played in Volta Redonda - a city that probably doesn’t see many tourists having a massive industrial complex right in the centre of town.

And it doesn’t attract many spectators for lodgers Duque de Caxias’ games either.

The medium sized ground, with Volta Redondo picked out in black along the side, is fairly modern with a covered main stand and partial cover opposite.

The visitors did bring a small group of fans and they cheered as their team went ahead early in the second half via a far post header.
With the home side getting a man sent off it looked like an away win but Duque fought back and eventually equalised from a penalty with about fifteen minutes left.
They had by far the best player on show - the speedy right wing back (no.2)

Despite having Ben Hur and John Lennon in their lineup Vila Nova had to settle for a draw and relegation to Serie C.
Duque de Caxias had long since been confirmed as demoted.

So a surreal ending to my trip

I took the bus, a two hour ride again through impressive scenery, to Rio and eventually the flight home to London.

Overall I enjoyed some exciting games in mostly great atmospheres played out in some interesting stadiums.
As long as you can cope with the transport infrastructure, the crowded cities and few people speaking English compensated by the hot weather (I guess) Brazil delivers.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/979299244

Rubin Kazan v Spartak Moscow October 2011

2011-10-19T07:35:00.000-07:00

Rubin Kazan 3 Spartak Moscow 0.

16th October 2011 23,650. Russian Premier.

Red buses, pubs and the Premier League on TV - it could be London but it is really the Republic of Tatarstan.

Kazan is 700km east from Moscow, an hour or so by plane, but its just up the road in this massive country.
And many fans from Moscow made the journey, lots seemingly for the first time.
Like me they spent time photographing the very impressive Kremlin with its mosques, towers and walls.

The Spartak red scarves thronged the main pedestrianised street with its mixture of part-demolished and newer buildings.

A fifteen minute stroll up the road was the Central stadium where the 4,000 or so away fans filled a large part of the left hand end of the ground.
They produced plenty of noise but their team failed to deliver much in return.

After a fairly cagey first half of few chances Rubin came out with more purpose in the second period and scored early through the excellent Ecuadorean Christian Noboa.
Ryazantsev added another soon after and Spartak got into more trouble when Nigerian striker Emenike was given a second yellow.

The Moscow side never looked like getting back into it and a deflected shot cum cross by Bibras Natcho in added time sealed their fate, much to the locals delight.

Rubin were in good form based on a solid defence and strong midfield but whether they will do as well against the likes of Tottenham in the Champions League only time will tell.

For Spartak the likes of Aiden McGeady and the Brazilian Welliton couldn’t produce much to endanger the home goal.

The atmosphere was enhanced by flares and smoke from both sets of ultras and in the city centre the fans seemed to get along OK, watched by the local police.

Afterwards I settled for a kebab served, in an overstaffed restaurant, by girls who would not have been out of place on a catwalk.

Most of the Spartak fans drank their beer and hung around McDonalds.
Some were still enjoying Grolsch in the airport prior to the 9.55 flight back to the capital.

As you would expect in Russia at this time of year the weather was not warm, especially when facing the wind, but Kazan is definitely worth a visit.

Back In Moscow, amongst the huddled masses, I travelled the metro to Arbat, visited Red Square and the impressive National Historical Museum (everything from mention of Bronze Age communes through relics from Napoleon’s 1812 visit to pictures of Brezhnev and Stalin)

Maybe Russia itself is becoming more inviting (once you have a visa and can afford the hotel prices) for visitors as the younger generation takes over more of the customer service - more inviting but not necessarily better or more informed.
However the security stays in evidence though perhaps more relaxed than previously.

Quite what it’ll be like in (say) 2018 is open to question with still few concessions to signage in English or indeed not that many people speaking any language other than Russian.

But the fascination remains with this visitor, of being in a vast, powerful and hedonistic country.

More pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/942755232

Montenegro, Germany and Croatia October 2011

2011-10-10T04:03:00.000-07:00

Three games starting in Germany, from there to Montenegro and ending in Croatia.

Early Worms late Kickers.

Stuttgarter Kickers 1 Wormatia Worms 1 2,360.

Limited options on the way to Montenegro for the England game so I chose this Regionalliga (4th level) game in Stuttgart.

As it happened I had seen the Kickers play at the Neckar stadium some years ago when they were, briefly, in the Bundesliga

Their regular home is in the south of the city, easily accessible by U-bahn, and comprises medium sized terracing with one stand of seating.

The visitors brought about 50 fans and they were placed at the right hand end.

The weather was warm and dry and the pitch looked good.

Worms started well and scored after five minutes when Toch shot in from a corner routine.
As time went on the very young home side (oldest player - 24) passed the ball reasonably well and edged the possession without making many chances.

The best hope for the Kickers always seemed to be from a set play and so it proved when they equalised, via a header from a corner, in added time.

By then it was nine men versus ten as three had been sent off, two for a scuffle in the second period. That was when Worms had begun to frustrate with their apparent ‘injuries’.

I then travelled via Cologne/Bonn to Dubrovnik and on by car to Podgorica.

Rooney sees red.

Montenegro 2 England 2 15,000

And so we qualified for the Euros, as did Montenegro after Switzerland lost to Wales.

But the Montenegrins certainly enjoyed it more than we did with a pitch invasion and a celebration with some of their own players.

We came away looking somewhat ill prepared to go far in next years finals after losing a two goal lead and having our best attacker, Rooney, sent off.

It had seemed like a routine win after a promising start with an Ashley Young far post header and
a tap-in for Darren Bent.
But a response by Montenegro just before half time and a generally moderate second period performance by England allowed the home side to equalise in the last few minutes.

The rain increased as the match wore on and after the final whistle became torrential.
So this was one time when it was no bad thing to be kept in as the downpour had eased when we were finally let out.

I managed to negotiate my way back to my hotel through the flooded roads to contemplate where we had gone wrong.

As to Podgorica, well the city itself is not blessed with many impressive sites however the surrounding mountain scenery does tend to compensate.

No.21 scores.

Konavljanin 1 Jadran LP 0 c.70

On the Saturday, after the international, I chose a Croatian 3rd level match played in Gruda close to the Montenegrin border.

The basic ground (a few rows of seats and a small covered area for the cameras) is in a picturesque valley within an attractive mountain backdrop.
Unfortunately the valley does get rather windy so it was a cool watch.

The winner was scored by the best player on the pitch, the home sides no.21, a nominal left back who played more as a winger.

Konavljanin had more of the ball although the visitors had some decent chances, one blocked by their own player.
On a very poor pitch it was unlikely to be a classic.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/929235190

USA & Canada September 2011

2011-09-30T03:59:00.000-07:00

A ten day trip to the USA and Canada to see three football matches, one NFL game in Miami and five baseball games.

Fort Lauderdale Strikers 1 Atlanta Silverbacks 1.

The last home game for the Strikers in the regular season.

On a warm but breezy Florida evening a decent crowd, given as 4,688, assembled at the Lockhart stadium to see the Strikers confirm their place in the NASL (2nd level) play-offs.

The Silverbacks had long since given up any hope of making them being rock bottom for a while.

Although they did look in better shape than when I watched them back in June.
Particularly Nicholas Colaluca who scored their goal with a great run and shot in off the post.

That was in the last minute and it gave the Silverbacks the lead but straight afterwards sub. Garrado crossed for Shriver to slide in the equaliser.

Before all that the Strikers had passed the ball better and created chances - all missed.
In the second half it had been a more even contest culminating in the action in the last few minutes.

The attendance was boosted by a large number of kids who also spent time in the fan park across the road from the ground.

The stadium itself, also home to the old version of the Strikers, comprises lots of open seating of a semi-permanent style.
For this game only one side and one end was open for the fans.

Miami Dolphins 13 Houston Texans 23.

My first ever live NFL game, at the Sun Life stadium in Miami.

I sat next to Bill - I knew his name because the lady who I bought the ticket off (outside the stadium - $50 for a $87 ticket) had told me I would sitting next to him.
Bill helped with some of the nuances and I felt able to appreciate the importance of ‘defense’.

As it turned out the Texans were better at that, and also in attack.

But for a while the home team, under pressure having lost their first game, kept the score fairly close.
They were helped by over 100yds rushing by Daniel Thomas (you could see why these running backs only last about 5 years in the sport)

Then in the final quarter the Texans ran down the clock and easily held on for the win.

By then most of the crowd had left - to negotiate their way past the hundreds of tailgaters.

Overall the experience was certainly noisier than a typical baseball game, with a far larger crowd (51,000) and more razzmatazz.

However the sport itself doesn’t flow as well due to the frequent stoppages.
And sometimes its not easy to see the play partly due to the mass of forwards and also due to the large numbers of people along the sidelines.

Though I might plan to see a few more games it didn’t make me want to watch much live NFL.
Although the college games, also given plenty of prominence on TV, probably offer a better experience, atmosphere and larger crowds.

I’d managed to find somewhere to park outside of the expensive regulated places and fortunately my car hadn’t been towed away when I returned over 3 hours later.
I then found my way back up the I-95 to Fort Lauderdale for some fish & chips plus a frozen margarita in Champps.

In a parallel universe you could see yourself enjoying a Fort Lauderdale lifestyle... the yachts, the
surroundings and the sunshine.

The weather, despite the usual slight possibility of thunderstorms had stayed warm and dry.

Florida Marlins 6 Atlanta Braves 5.

Back to the Sun Life for some baseball and there was quite a transformation as the stadium was
orientated for another sport and there is far less people around.

The official attendance of over 20,000 meant there must been about 10,000 hiding somewhere nearby.

The good news for the fans is that the Marlins will have a new state-of-the-art baseball specific stadium ready for next season.
And it will have a retractable roof - which would have been handy on this evening when the rain started to fall later in the game.
However they played on, perhaps this being Florida they knew it wouldn’t last long (it didn’t)

Though there weren’t many fans to see the actual game it had a dramatic conclusion and
a good number of home runs including two by Stanton of the Marlins.

The Braves had overtaken the Marlins lead when scoring 4 runs in the seventh and it looked like they would prevail.

But with two men out in the bottom of the ninth the home side were about to lose when a Braves fielder failed to hold a drive allowing a runner to get to first base.

Then Omar Infante smashed a two run walk-off homer for the 6-5 win.

The result dented the Braves chances of making a Wild Card spot despite being very well positioned.

At least this time there was not much traffic to negotiate as I drove back to my hotel near to Miami airport.

From Miami via Charlotte to Toronto.

Toronto 1 Tauro (Panama) 0.

Just one goal - a brave header from Dutch striker Danny Koevermans - decided the outcome of this Concacaf Champions League group game.

Toronto had Torsten Frings as sweeper and they edged the first half although the smaller visitors showed better passing skills in the second period, without creating too much.

The BMO field is part of the Toronto exhibition complex and the stadium, open medium sized seating, offers excellent views of the city skyline.

The home ultras amongst the 10,000 mainly congregated at the right hand end whilst there was a handful of away fans including a bull mascot.

I took the streetcar back to my hotel in the Spadina area.

Toronto Blue Jays 2 LA Angels 7.

Back to baseball and a visit to the Toronto Skydome (or Rogers Centre)

The roof was closed to keep out the rain from the 15,000 fans inside.
By chance I sat in the non-drinking section (preferable to the all-you-can-eat area) up on the cheaper 5th level.

The Angels went ahead and added runs at regular intervals with only a single HR and a late run as replies.
The visiting pitcher, Haren, threw for 8 innings before getting hit by a drive.
He had done enough to secure the win.

Subway back to my hotel via 7-Eleven for some beer and nuts.

I would definitely look back on Toronto as a place to re-visit with its vibrant city centre, vast range of restaurants and impressive Royal Ontario Museum, in which I spent about 3 hours prior to the ballgame.

Cleveland Indians 11 Chicago White Sox 2.

Not too far away across the Great Lakes is Cleveland.

Where in the afternoon I visited the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame.

Like many people I was dismayed that some of my musical favourites (e.g Capt Beefheart and Arthur Lee of Love) hadn’t made it onto the list of inductees.
But you can’t deny the experience provoked spine tingling memories of music from the last 50 years for this visitor.

Meanwhile in the evening I watched the ‘Tribe’ hit two quick home runs only to be pegged back by the White Sox in the fifth.
But after that they dominated with Cabrera scoring a three-run homer and Travis Hafner making his 1,000 hit.

The Indians inner-city stadium is in the newer style with dark green seats and great views of downtown Cleveland. Nearby is the Browns NFL stadium.

Pittsburgh Pirates 4 Cincinnati Reds 3.

I took the Greyhound to Pittsburgh passing through some fairly depressed areas (e.g Youngstown) during the three and a half hour journey.

This time it proved difficult to get a reasonably priced downtown hotel so I ended up at the airport and commuted to the ballgame from there.
At least they have an impressive dedicated bus lane for most of the route.

Despite a morning of persistent rain the weather relented for an enjoyable evening of baseball in the PNC Park, another centrally located stadium.

Prior to the game I indulged in scallops wrapped in bacon washed down with a couple of pints in a bar near the ground.

In the game the Pirates went ahead but the Reds (who had a decent number of fans) fought back and it stayed close.

The drama came in the ninth when, with the bases loaded the Pirates pitcher hit the batter and the Reds got the tieing run.

But with the tension being cranked up by the playing of Keira Knightley’s speech from one of the ‘Pirates’ films the fans waved their (free) t-shirts and raised the black Pirate flags.

And as it should be in American sport pinch hitter Ryan Ludwick hit the walk-off single and we had the textbook rousing finish.

Via Charlotte to Tampa.

Tampa Bay 2 Fort Lauderdale Strikers 0.

The last match in the regular NASL season for these two teams.

It was mostly a case of positioning for the play-offs (6 of the 8 teams made it so getting through was hardly too onerous) and some Florida pride.

Tampa Bay FC play at the Al Lang stadium (or Progress Energy Park), a small baseball stadium in St Petersburg.
Don’t expect a great view as the only stand is wrapped around one end and part of a side.

The crowd was typically well filled with kids and a small group of ‘ultras’ from either side.

They saw the home side take charge following the sending off Puerto Rican Arrieta after an over-the-top tackle.
Two second half goals sealed the victory.

Fort Lauderdale at times showed good passing but they were generally second best.

Tampa Bay Rays 5 Toronto Blue Jays 2.

Also in St Petersburg Tropicana Field (another enclosed dome) hosted the Rays in their quest to qualify for a Wild Card place in the American League.

The Rays had at one time been nine games behind Boston in that race but now they were closing in on an unlikely qualification.

And it was a great start for the home side with two quick home runs including one inside the ballpark after a Jays fielder collided with the backboards.

Although the visitors got two runs back Tampa went further in front with another homer and as Boston were losing the home fans had plenty to celebrate.

And it subsequently transpired that Tampa would make it to the Wild Card place with a late win against the Yankees (after being 7-0 down), as the Rod Sox went down to the Orioles on the night of the 162nd games.

Afterwards I headed back to my hotel, had a couple of beers and some food in a Hooters-like restaurant whilst watching some NFL, before having a welcome early night.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/913458241

Ukraine September 2011

2011-09-14T03:28:00.000-07:00

This was a long weekend trip to the Ukraine to see two games including a visit to Dynamo Kiev for their league game against Illychivets.

Vorskla Poltava 3 Chornomorets 1.

The Vorskla stadium is in the older style with a track, curved ends and an array of open seating.

The turnout on this Saturday afternoon was moderate, 4000, on a cool but thankfully dry day.

They saw the home side take their time to get going.
But when the away goalie was sent off for bringing down a home player it became easier.

Albanian Januzi headed in from a corner and Vorskla added two more in the second half including a nice left shot from Rebenok.
The team from Odessa just had a late consolation.

Overall the local team, who have progressed to the group stage of the Europa League this season, had a comfortable win.
Their strength seemed to be more as a counter attacking team.

Poltava itself, a four hour train ride east from Kiev, probably doesn’t detain tourists for too long although the vodka at around 40p a shot is great value.
And there is an excellent hotel (the Palazzo) to take care of visitors, who included the Chornomorets players.

Dynamo Kiev 3 Illychivets 1.

Local hero Andrei Shevchenko came on for the last half hour of this one and soon got the crowd chanting ‘Sheva’ ‘Sheva’.
He looked in good shape and showed some of those skills from the past, especially when dribbling past a couple of defenders to set up a cross that just eluded an incoming forward.

Not that Dynamo really needed much help as they had scored early on, added a second, and got the benefit of a bizarre own goal by Butko.
The Dynamo goalie even gifted the visitors their consolation when he contrived to miss a long shot from Kozhanov.

The home side, backed by three groups of ultras, were easy on the eye showing attractive passing skills and a sharpness and quality that always looked too much for Illychivets.
Even so the away side, backed by about 50 fans, did have a good chance near the end of the first period, with the score at 1-0, but this time Shovkovskiy’s legs saved the shot.

The Valery Lobanovsky is another uncovered stadium but in a location both centrally located and neatly surrounded by trees making it feel cosier than many.
There is also a nice gateway entrance and a statue of the great coach on the way to the stadium itself.

On this Sunday evening walking back through the main Kreshchatyk street the area was mostly sealed off from traffic leaving space for the strolling public to enjoy the street entertainment and the colourful lights of this historic city.

This being Ukraine further down the street were the political protestors.

Incidentally the next day I walked over to see the construction going on at the Kiev Olympic stadium which is scheduled to host the final of the 2012 Euros.
And it certainly looks like being an impressive stadium although to this layman they will need a few more months to complete the development.

More pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/893727545

Romania & Ukraine August 2011

2011-08-26T03:53:00.000-07:00

Romania & Ukraine August 2011.

Not quite the original plan in a number of ways.

The Romania v Argentina game, that was to open the redeveloped National stadium, was cancelled when the South Americans pulled out.

Dinamo Bucharest were playing behind closed doors, Steaua were playing in different locations and my planned game at Targu Mures game was re-scheduled to an inconvenient time.

So I was left with 4 league games and one Europa League fixture plus a trip to Odessa.

Starting with CS Mioveni 0 Astra Ploiesti 1.

Mioveni is about 130 km from Bucharest and close to Pitesti where I stopped for a look around.

The central pedestrianised area was pleasant enough in the sunshine and many people were out enjoying the weather.

Meanwhile in Mioveni there was a small carnival going on.

Near to which was the central, green and yellow, Dacia stadium.

Appropriately named, not only because of my rental car but also because their main factory is in Mioveni.

Like my car the Mioveni team lacked some acceleration and perhaps a little quality.
Astra always looked in control especially after a controversial headed winner on 20 minutes.

The linesman, given plenty of grief afterwards, signalled that the ball had crossed the line - it was hard to tell from my seat.

The game had plenty of robust tackles and rather too many stoppages.

The men who stood out tended to be in the away side - Argentinian striker Miranda and the Senegalese N’Doye.
Certainly the home side’s Brazilian Roberto Ayza was not the best player from that country,.

So Mioveni, only formed in 2000, struggled to score despite having more possession and just to compound the frustration had a man sent off near the end.
By then the home crowd (a decent 4500) were reconciled to their fate.

I negotiated my way along some bumpy roads and then the motorway back to Bucharest.

With Dinamo Bucharest playing without spectators I next opted for the Concordia game.

Concordia Chiajna 0 Vaslui 3.

Despite being close to Bucharest I didn’t find it easy to locate Chiajna ending up going virtually off-road to the stadium.

Once there it was played in a neat, small and somewhat stylish ground decked out in yellow & green.

The game started fairly even but once Vaslui scored (a Wesley header on 33 minutes) they tended to be in control.
Concordia lacked ideas and were caught on the break a couple of times as the visitors wrapped up the win late on.

The excellent away ultras - some 50 or 60 who had made the very long journey from the east of the country - went home happy.

Steaua Bucharest 2 Univ Cluj 1 played at Astra Ploiesti.

Steaua were playing this game in Ploiesti because of a dispute over them using their own stadium.

The ground is of an inner city type with houses almost attached to the stands.
There is a mix of covered and open seating and the fans are typically close to the action.

A number of the Cluj players, presumably being ex-Dinamo, received plenty of grief.

The away team started well with striker Anthony Nwakaeme (Nigeria) a definite threat.
But as has become a trend the game changed when Steaua scored after Costea had his first effort saved.

That gave Steaua the confidence and they consolidated the lead when sub Rusescu rifled in a 25 yarder.
Although Cluj replied immediately it made no difference to the result.

Surprisingly for me I made it back to the centre of Bucharest in an hour without getting lost.

Vointa Sibiu 1 Targu Mures 1.

My fourth game in the Romanian Liga 1 was played in the very attractive city of Sibiu in Translyvania.

In a way it was a relief to get away from Bucharest and the traffic, lack of good signs and the, at times, manic drivers.
Not that the driving standard was much better anywhere else.

Vointa have made a very quick rise up the Romanian leagues and they are now in the top level for the first time (in this incarnation)

There side comprised only Romanian players unlike the opposition who had a Brazilian and Ba from Senegal.

The municipal ground, a fifteen minute stroll from the historic centre, has a track, covered main stand and curved open seating around the rest of the stadium.
From the main stand there are views of the surrounding mountains.

On another warm evening (they even stopped for drinks after half an hour) the two sides probed until Ba brought down a home forward and Vointa had a penalty.
Unfortunately Antohi’s shot went wide.

The next significant action was the red card for Claudio Bunea of the home side after a reckless tackle.
On 75 minutes Astafei converted when put through but the home side, encouraged by the local fans, forced an equaliser with about five minutes left when defender Forika, up for a corner headed in.

The home fans cheered their team and though they didn’t scored again it was a well deserved draw for the ten men.

I’d missed the Tarja Turunen and Lacuna Coil concerts taking place over the weekend in Sibiu.
but had seen a decent game & afterwards I was back in the centre to sample the local wine.

Steaua Bucharest 2 CSKA Sofia 0 in the Europa League.

Played in Cluj as Steaua continue their tour of ‘home’ games around Romania.

Probably not too many made it from the capital but plenty did turn out (20,000) from the nearby regions on a warm evening.
They stamped their feet to create quite a racket in an atmospheric stadium, albeit with three sides.

The Sofia fans also played their part including unveiling a banner criticising the Steaua president - which went down particularly well.

With the final in Bucharest the Europa League represents a unique opportunity for the five Romanian teams to play a final in their own country.
Being the best supported local club Steaua obviously would like a piece of this action.

And they are likely to progress further after this match although probably not to the final.

The goals came from defender Galamaz and Brazilian Tatu.

Steaua survived some near things but merited the win.

At one time it looked like we might have a ‘Malmo’ situation with the Sofia fans letting off fireworks but after some stern warnings (‘the Bulgarian fans will go out of the stadium’) it settled down.

With a hotel about 200m from the ground I could dispense with the car and stroll to and from the stadium.

Chornomorets Odessa 0 Volyn Lutsk 0.

A diversion to the seaport of Odessa, via Timisoara in Romania, to watch the home side play at the Spartak stadium before they move into their redeveloped central stadium.

The Spartak comprises just two sides of mostly opening seating with a small, raised, covered VIP area.

The game itself was watchable with the very tall Lutsk team looking especially dangerous on crosses but neither side could create much from open play.

The ‘woodwork’ was hit 3 or 4 times but it ended goalless and brought to end my personal scoring run of over 70 matches.

Odessa provided plenty of attractions including some quality beer from a micro brewery and a pre-game meal of caviar and irish coffee - not my usual refreshment.

In port was an italian training ship, some of its occupants would no doubt be searching out the local entertainment.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/868595969

Sweden July 2011 #2

2011-08-02T03:17:00.000-07:00

A weekend visit to Sweden for two Premier League games including the abandoned game at Malmo.

Malmo 1 Djurgarden 0.

This match was suspended after about 12 minutes due to crowd disturbances amongst the away fans.

Which was a shame because the atmosphere had been vibrant and noisy but ultimately spoilt by the Djurgarden ultras continuing to let off their fireworks.

In some countries it might not have been an issue but in Sweden it quickly caused the referee to take the players away and after about a thirty minute delay the game was abandoned.

As it was not the first time a recent Swedish game has been affected by crowd trouble the local FA are likely to consider more serious sanctions.

The new Swedbank Arena has the trappings of a modern stadium (the old ground remains nearby) with in-built bar & restaurant.
I sampled the beer whilst watching a Arsenal v Chelsea re-run.

In the action we did see Dardan Rexhepi smashed in a shot from close range, giving the giant Pa Touray no chance.

Then the off field action began.

Helsingborg 2 IFK 1.

More away ultras arrived for this one but they were very controlled by the accompanying Gothenburg police and presumably well searched before being allowed into the stadium.

The ancient Olympia, used in the 1958 World Cup, was well filled with the locals (still plenty with Henrik Larsson shirts) used to seeing a good performance from the home team with only one league defeat all season.

The IFK fans, packed into a section of the away terrace, maintained their support but their team were generally second best although they, arguably, had the best chance in the first half.

Helsingborg passed the ball well with midfielders Gashi and Mahlangu especially effective.

The impressive Rasmus Jonsson, a shorter version of Peter Crouch, set up the first for Andersson and Mahlangu scored a terrific solo second.

IFK’s top scorer Tobias Hysen did get a very late consolation but they were well beaten by then.

I strolled back to the station were there was still plenty of police presence and took the, incident-free, train on to Gothenburg.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/843334203

Sweden July 2011

2011-07-21T09:45:00.000-07:00

A long weekend in Sweden to see two top level games and one from the second division.

I started somewhere near Stockholm.

On the bus ride from the airport to the centre of Stockholm I had chatted to an art student.

During the conversation we discussed, amongst other things, why Picasso was recognised as such a great artist.
Apart from his innovations ‘form’ (shapes) played a large part.

As if to illustrate the point the student mentioned that she had spent a year studying the ‘rectangle’ (though she had later moved on to polygons)

This, I think, gave me some insight into the mind of an artist.

Neither Djurgarden or Mjallby were in great form.

Djurgarden 1 Mjallby 0

Played in the historic 1912 Olympic stadium in central Stockholm.

Wooden bench seating, numerous posts, attractive details and the iconic canopy over the VIP area help to make this a unique venue for top level football (and athletics)

But the quality of the match didn’t match the surroundings & won’t live long in the memory.

It was settled by one goal scored late on after a break down the left and a cross converted by substitute Oremo.
Nigerian Kennedy Ogboananike had been a livewire up front for the home side though he did lack a good touch.
The home goalie, Pa Dembo Touray, all 105 kilos presented an imposing figure but was rarely tested.
Mjallby concentrated on defence and their central pairing did frustrate most of Djurgardens’ efforts - until those last 10 minutes.

GAIS 4 Orebro 1

Wandering around Gothenburg were many younger football players taking part in the Gothia Cup, described as the largest such tournament in the world with over 1000 teams from 70 countries.

Meanwhile GAIS met Orebro in the ‘new’ Gamla Ullevi.
The stadium is neat, compact and no doubt atmospheric when full.

It wasn’t for this one and the 4,000 attendance looked generous though the GAIS ultras did provide some noise from the upper tier.

The victory took the home side up to 4th in the Swedish Premier.

In the end it was comfortable despite the visitors taking the lead.

Striker Alvaro Santos played his part setting up one and scoring a penalty.
Benin substitute Otomoyossi sealed the victory.

The weather had not been kind with heavy, wind-blown rain making it an uncomfortable walk from the centre.
Thankfully it did ease later for the trip back to the hotel and an evening watching most of the Women’s World Cup final.

Brommapojkarna 2 Atvidebergs 2

Back in Stockholm for this second level encounter between two teams towards the top of the league.

The Grimsta stadium is in an area of Stockholm well away from the relative splendour of the centre of the city.
But at least the wine is a lot cheaper to sample as I waited for the rain to to ease.

The ground mostly comprises one main stand with various semi-temporary stands around the periphery.
The crowd was swelled by a good number of away fans who didn’t get too wet as the clouds eventually went away.

This was the best game of the three with the high scoring visitors taking a two goal lead including one from their striker Oscar Moller.
His sending off, for arguing, in the second period would help to change the game.

As Brommapojkarna, always committed to attack, fought back with two strikes from substitute Mauricio Albornoz.

I took the T-bahn back to my hotel and thought a little more about the ‘rectangle’.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/832641996

Santos v Penarol June 2011

2011-07-04T09:26:00.000-07:00

Santos v Penarol 22nd June 2011

The final of the Copa Libertadores 2nd leg.

Following an overnight flight from Dallas I was in Sao Paulo the day before the final and it is winter.
Hollister shirts and bare midriffs are in fashion.

The Pacaembu stadium is a twenty minute walk from the end of Avenida Paulista and inside is a modern football museum where you can relive moments connected with the stars of Brazilian football and even their less memorable moments including the famous defeat in the 1950 World Cup.

Most of all it provided a reminder of the genius of their greatest player, Pele, with some rare footage of him scoring great goals from the past.

Pele was prominent in helping Santos win their last Copa Libertadores title back in 1963.

Could the latest superstar, Neymar, emulate his illustrious predecessor with the Santos team of 2011 ?

Santos 2 Penarol 1 (Santos won 2-1 on aggregate)
played at the Pacaembu stadium in Sao Paulo.

The local sportspaper, Lance, had left space on their front page for a picture of the 2011 Santos team to add to those of the previous winners in 1962 and 1963.

The day after they could celebrate and look forward to them vying against Barcelona in the Club World Cup.

As always the final of the Copa Libertadores is a noisy, vibrant and visceral experience.

Fireworks and flares went off pretty much throughout and the supporters’ sections displayed their flags.

Presumably Santos chose the Pacaembu partly because their own stadium is too small but also because the Morumbi, the largest ground in Sao Paulo, was too big.
The choice restricted the away fans to a corner section holding about 2,500 amongst the 38,000 capacity.

That was a shame as Penarol, one of the big two in Montevideo, probably could have sold over 10,000 tickets.
The Uruguyans themselves had not won this prestigious club competition since 1987.

It was Santos who deserved the victory.

Neymar scored the crucial opening goal after a great run by Arouca, though his shot at the near post could have been stopped by the Penarol goalkeeper.

Danilo sealed it after the break coming in from the right to score left footed.

Penarol, who had struggled for most of the game, did get a lifeline via an own goal near the end.
That gave us a tense last few minutes but Santos held on and the fans could celebrate.

The visitors didn’t take it well and we had a mass brawl on the pitch including players and staff.

That eventually settled down and at around 00.30 they made the presentations.
By then I was back at my hotel to calm down with a couple of beers.

So what about Neymar ?

Certainly no Pele, but a comparison with Cristiano Ronaldo might be made in a few years time.
He has pace, plenty of tricks and is two footed.

Time will tell if he develops into a global superstar.
But his value would certainly have been enhanced by scoring in this final.

The following day, Thursday, was a holiday in Brazil and time for me to relax at the Modern Art Museum and a stroll along a quiet Avenida Paulista.
Time enough to reflect on another unforgettable night in South America.

more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/813730968

USA & Canada June 2011

2011-07-04T07:13:00.000-07:00

A visit to the US and Canada principally for the Gold Cup but also including MLS, NASL and USL Pro football fixtures and some baseball.

The trip also included a visit to Sao Paulo for the Copa Libertadores final - see separate blog entry.

Starting in Dallas.

FC Dallas 1 New England Revolution 0

This Major League Soccer game was played in their relatively new soccer-specific stadium in Frisco some 30 miles north of Dallas.

Although the official attendance was given as over 10,000 the actual turnout looked considerably less.
Dallas had their ‘ultras’ in the right hand corner of a mostly open ground with a typical bar/cafe area at one end.
The atmosphere was a bit surreal with a constant flow of people moving around to get refreshments. Many came in late.

As you would expect in Texas it was hot.

Dallas dominated the game with their two Hispanic forwards Castillo and Chavez looking lively up front.
Chavez got the only goal.

Steve Nichol’s New England only applied some pressure towards the end.

The Gold Cup begins.

Costa Rica 5 Cuba 0

The Concacaf Gold Cup began in the massive Cowboys stadium in Arlington.

Outside in the sunshine was a busy fan park.

Inside, aside from the size of the air conditioned enclosed arena, what stood out was the impressive central scoreboard.

For this first of the double headers Cuba did look useful in possession but they lacked a threat up front and eventually were shown to be very naive in defence.

The Costa Ricans exploited their weaknesses and run out easy winners.

Substitute Joe Campbell sealed the win with a fine left foot finish.

Gradually the Mexican fans arrived.
They filled up the stadium on this Sunday night making the attendance over 80,000.

Mexico 5 El Salvador 0

Again the score was somewhat harsh.

Man Utd’s Chicarito, after a quiet first half, scored three in the second including a chipped penalty.

Mexico stepped up after the break and looked favourites for the Cup.

The day finished with a stroll back the hotel and some wine outside on the ‘porch’ on a still warm night.

(Baseball) Chicago White Sox 3 Seattle Mariners 1

Not as stimulating as my last visit to Chicago for baseball (at the Cubs)

But Chicago is always a worthwhile diversion, this time on the way to Detroit.
And it was pleasant enough at what was Comiskey Park to the south of downtown.

Designated hitter Paul Konerko hit a home run for the Sox and they got other runners home with just one reply from the Mariners.

I took the subway back to the hotel for a relatively early night.

Amtrak to Detroit.

Which was tolerable if you allow for about an hour delay because of the almost inevitable freight traffic clogging up the line.

Also Detroit does not have the most efficient public transport system.
So waiting for a bus can be tiresome, not least in the very hot weather.

Panama 3 Guadeloupe 2

Anyway back to the Gold Cup and Ford Field in central Detroit.
Which tends to ‘close’ early except for the area around the stadiums.

Ford Field is home to the Detroit Lions NFL team and is another enclosed arena capable of seating 70,000 though only 28,000 were, eventually, present on this particular night.

And many less than that for the opening encounter.

Which Panama won after going 3-0 ahead against ten man Guadeloupe.
The overseas French region, a non-FIFA member, was playing in its third Gold Cup having reached the semis in 2007.

Guadeloupe managed two responses later in the second period in a spirited comeback but Panama held on for the win.

USA 2 Canada 0

The USA ‘ultras’ arrived behind the goal to watch their team show a strong defence against a watchable Canadian side that lacked a cutting edge.

The Americans went in front after a shot from Altidore eluded the Canadian goalie and they sealed the win when Dempsey converted at the far post.

Plenty of effort from Canada in an entertaining match but the US, helped by some great saves by Howard, did enough.

Afterwards some beers and a chat with the locals.

Via Charlotte to Atlanta.

Atlanta Silverbacks 2 Montreal Impact 1

Prior to the game a tasty meal of fish in a Mexican restaurant in the Chamblee area of Atlanta where we were the only England supporters amongst the relaxing Mariachi band and others.

This was a match in the new version of the NASL, designated as the second level of US football.

The Silverbacks Park comprises two open stands with multi-colour seats, trees around, a walkway at one end and a cafe area at the other. A band was playing near the cafe before the match.

There was a small crowd, of which many arrived late, that seemed to be around 800 but was listed as over 2,800.

This was the first time I can remember experiencing a delay at a game due to the presence of lightning in the area. The caution was excessive as there was only a brief flash some distance away.

Bottom of the table Silverbacks took a two goal lead before Montreal (destined for the MLS - with this team they’ll struggle) got one back.

It was a match of very moderate standard played on a ‘3G’ pitch.

Charlotte.

A visit to the Modern Art Museum beforehand followed by some refreshment then :

El Salvador 1 Costa Rica 1

This turned out to be a long night as the first match was delayed by 30 minutes due to the threat of a storm.

The games were played in the, mostly open, Bank of America stadium in central Charlotte, home of the NFL team.

El Salvador led against the run of play, played better in the second half but succumbed to late Costa Rica pressure and conceded an equaliser.

Mexico 5 Cuba 0

Two from Dos Santos and two more from Chicarito Hernandez and the Mexicans ended up comfortable winners.

Although Cuba did stay close for the first 30 minutes Mexico ran away with it in the second half.
That was despite Mexico having five players suspended for possible drug abuse.

Incidentally it was later reported that one of the Cuban players had defected (by jumping out of a window)

In the end 46,000 fans attended with the Mexico fans being good value as usual.

Some wine in a sports bar to finish.

Florida.

Via Charlotte to Tampa, via car to Orlando.

Past the various Disney attractions and sundry ‘Worlds’.

My companion read the latest issue of ‘Slammers’ - containing mug shots of the most recent prison inmates or fugitives, some of whom I’m sure we noticed on the bus to Charlotte airport.

After an early look at the outside of the historic Citrus Bowl we partook of some food in central Orlando before returning to :

Orlando City 1 Antigua Barracuda 2

A venue for the 1994 World Cup the Citrus Bowl, with its two massive sides, is some venue for the third-tier Orlando City but they pulled in an enthusiastic following on this Friday evening.

We had a band, the ruckus ultras and a ruckus in the game with 3 (or 4 if you count a coach) sent off including an unused substitute.

The next fight I would see was at the end of the Copa Libertadores final in Sao Paulo.

Adrian Heath’s Orlando, with ambitions to eventually move into the MLS, passed it around neatly but couldn’t create much as the Barracudas took a two goal lead.

Eventually the home side got one back but not a second.
Though they did stay top of the ‘American’ division of the USL Pro.

A drive back to our Tampa hotel for wine and trail mix on the ‘porch’ in the Florida heat.

Canada 1 Guadeloupe 0

In the morning a drive to St Petersburg where we enjoyed a pleasant stroll around the pier area plus a look at the baseball stadium, home to Tampa Bay FC of the NASL.

Then back across the impressive bridges to Tampa.

The Raymond James stadium is another large NFL venue with 3 tier sides and smaller ends.
One of which has a replica ship, after all this is the home of the Buccaneers.

Again Guadeloupe had a man sent off, this time for a reckless tackle in the first few minutes.

De Rosario scored the only goal from the penalty spot in the second period.
That was the only way Canada looked liked scoring.

USA 1 Panama 2

Watched by a crowd of 28,000, who produced a lively atmosphere, this was a famous result for Panama who beat the US for the first time.
It was also the only time the Americans have lost a Gold Cup group match.

Panama deserved it after outplaying the US in the first half .
They did have some fortune with the goals, the first coming from an uncharacteristic Tim Howard error and the second from a penalty after a rash tackle by Ream.

Clarence Goodson headed in from a corner and the US applied the pressure but they couldn’t get the equaliser.

Post match wine enjoyed by the pool.

Tampa to Newark.

On the flight I chatted to an elderly couple from North Carolina (‘are you going on the boat trip ? ‘ ‘No I’m staying in New York to see some soccer’. ‘Uh ?’)

They were going on a cruise to the Bahamas (‘they don’t accept dollars you know’)

During the course of the conversation the lady mentioned that she had been a telephone receptionist in DC at the same time as Edward 8th and Mrs Simpson had visited, although she had seen them she was too shy to meet them.

Less historic Newark was hot and humid.

FC New York 0 Richmond Kickers 2

Over to Manhattan for some excellent, spicy, Korean food before getting the subway to near St Johns University for this USL Pro encounter.

New York, with Sam Stockley ex- Barnet and Colchester Utd at right back, had limited chances and lost to two quick goals late on in the first half.

Interestingly the scoreboard at the Belson stadium (comprising a couple of small open stands) kept note of the shots, corners and saves.

It was a pleasant enough evening in Queens with some away fans boosting the (small) attendance

Guatemala 4 Grenada 0

Another visit to Manhattan and a journey over to Staten Island on the ferry followed by some shepherds pie and Belgian beer.

Then a return to Newark and a stroll to Harrison and the Red Bull Arena.

Though he immediate surroundings are not great the visiting fans produced plenty of atmosphere both outside and inside the stadium.

For this visitor the ground felt like an excellent medium-sized European stadium with its compact, symmetric covered two tiers.

Guatemala mostly controlled the first game against a Grenada team containing a number of English lower and non-league players.

Honduras 0 Jamaica 1

In a superb atmosphere generated by the large number of Hondurans Jamaica were very well organised by coach Theodore Whitmore and merited the victory.

They got it from a cracking left footer (albeit off the goalies’ back) by striker Ryan Johnson of San Jose.

Jamaica also missed a dubiously awarded penalty but Honduras played their part in a fast paced, enjoyable match.

To Kansas.

I get re-routed via Baltimore after my original South West flight is cancelled.
Though I get there at around 3pm, in time to easily make the evening game, it meant waiting 4 hours at Newark airport - not the best experience of the trip.

Canada 1 Panama 1

The 2nd ever game at the Livestrong Sporting Park stadium (Sporting Kansas City, the MLS club based here, have a partnership with Lance Armstrong’s Livestrong charity)

This one wasn’t too memorable as Canada again struggled to convert .
De Rosario did eventually - from another penalty after a push in the area.

But already qualified Panama stepped it up in the second half and they scored in added time following a scramble in the goalmouth.

The draw would mean Canada failed to qualify for the quarter finals.

USA 1 Guadeloupe 0

This time Guadeloupe kept eleven men on the pitch and they restricted the USA to one goal - an excellent strike from Altidore in the first period.

Clint Dempsey managed to miss various chances though it matter little in the end as Guadeloupe struggled to get close.

The US ultras helped to fill the stadium which with the standing spectators reached 20,000.
It is a part-covered ground with one typically smaller end above which is a walkway.

(baseball) LA Dodgers 2 Cincinnati Reds 7

An early flight from Kansas got me to my Los Angeles airport hotel by about 10.30am.

I decided not to take up the car-hire option, instead going by cab to the Dodgers for the 12.10 start.

Although I did ‘compensate’ by getting the free shuttle, bus ($1) and walking back to Century Boulevard.
This took much longer but did allow me to ‘admire’ downtown LA and in particular its decaying art-deco architecture.

Meanwhile back at the Dodgers stadium - one of the largest in Major League Baseball - I could enjoy the weather and the setting of this iconic stadium positioned on a hill above the surrounding area.

Inside I was fortunate to be able to see memorabilia from the history of the Dodgers including pennants from their World Series wins and scorecards from the nineteenth century.
Evocative enough as, no doubt, is their famous move from Brooklyn to the LA sunshine.

And as it happened it was ‘retro day’ with the players in old style uniforms and the refreshments at half price.

The crowd stayed quiet as the Reds got in front and stayed there.

I needed an early night so opted for an omelette, some wine and apple crumble at Dennys .

Phoenix.

(baseball) Arizona Diamondbacks 3 San Francisco Giants 2

It was up to 106 degrees (41 centigrade) in Phoenix.

Not a day for walking too far but at least it was a very dry, desert, heat.

I strolled around the centre (slowly) and took in a couple of happy-hour margaritas. before the ball game.
The roof was partially closed on Chase Field and they turned up the air con.

In the game the Dbacks scored a home run double early on, got pegged back then won it with a Justin Upton homer.
That woke up the crowd.

It was still 95 degrees as I meandered back to my hotel by 10.15pm.

Seattle.

Where it was close to 40 degrees (f) cooler than the Phoenix high.

More like Europe

But very pleasant to join the crowds on this Friday afternoon checking out the shops along the harbour area of downtown.

Prior to the game I sampled the king prawns and chips.

Then walked past the impressive Qwest Field (where teenagers were queuing to see the latest rapper) to Safeco Field.

(baseball) Seattle Mariners 4 Philadelphia Phillies 2

Inter-league baseball brings out the fans even including some away supporters.
It was the first time the Phillies had visited for about six years and they were also the leading team in the Major League.

But they were second best on this evening as the Mariners, led by the speedy Ichiro Suzuki ,ran in some early runs.
The Phillies got some back later on and they did get close in the ninth with men on bases but the Mariners got it done.

The walk back to the centre, looking back at the stadiums and downtown skyscrapers was impressive.
This was just a short visit but Seattle clearly merits a longer look.

Vancouver Canada.

More European style rain and cooler conditions.

But I perked up after some breakfast eggs and bacon on 2nd avenue prior to getting the bus to the Amtrak station.

More rain on the way to Vancouver on the bus (replacement for the train & probably more reliable) and through the border reasonably smoothly.
Going in the other direction looked a lot slower.

My hotel was near the Chinatown area (East Hastings) and though they never looked like a threat some of the locals did resemble the ‘living dead’ or stars of ‘Slammers’.

I adjourned to a local British pub for some hummus, a couple of pints and to watch R McIlroy in the US Open golf.

Then a bus to the stadium.

Vancouver Whitecaps 1 Philadelphia Union 0

A return to the MLS and to the Empire Field, which in a previous incarnation as the Empire Stadium, had hosted a famous race between Roger Bannister and John Landy in 1954.

This temporary stadium is reminiscent of the one built for Fortuna Dusseldorf being constructed in 111 days to hold around 25,000 (20,000 on this night)
It will host the Whitecaps until they move to the much larger and more central BC Place Stadium later in the year.

Despite being last in the Western Conference Vancouver clearly have a good following and a strong rivalry with their rivals to the south - Seattle and Portland.

The Whitecaps played well scoring through Swiss Alain Rochat in the first half.and containing the much higher ranked Union to few opportunities.

Shuttle bus back and a relatively early night.

Portland.

A flight via Seattle to Portland and the use of another efficient light rail system to get to downtown.

Where I catch up on the internet in the main library which is helpfully open on Sundays.

Outside there is quite a buzz about the city with music and lots of locals enjoying the ambience.

I enhance the experience by having a couple of ‘ Walking Man homo erectus imperial IPAs’
in a micro-brewery whilst watching more of Rory McIlroy in the golf.

Suitably enhanced I was in the mood to sample some more MLS.

Portland Timbers 3 New York Red Bulls 3

This was one of the best games and atmospheres I had experienced at a US league game.

In fact it was near enough to watching a game in Europe with a sellout crowd including a large, vibrant ‘ultras’ end.
We had songs and chants plus a lumberjack to saw the log every time the Timbers scored (admittedly not something you see in Europe)

Thierry Henry strolled around for the Bulls, showed some classy touches, scored a fine goal and then got sent off.

Portland had gone ahead 3-1 after New York had looked superior in the first half.

But the visitors, helped by the Henry magic and a missed home penalty, got back into it.
They finally equalised from the ever reliable Canadian De Rosario via the spot.

Excellent entertainment in a great city.

7-Eleven and bed.

From Portland , via Dallas to Sao Paulo (see the separate blog)

Philadelphia.

Return to the US via Miami and New York then Amtrak to Phillie.

Philadelphia Union 3 Chivas USA 2

PPL park is in Chester, a suburban train ride and shuttle bus from downtown Philadelphia.
The train takes you past a rusting industrial landscape to the new stadium beside the Delaware river and an impressive bridge.

Around the stadium a band played and a good crowd came to watch the top ranked Union overcame their visitors from the west coast in a very watchable game.

The home side have the Sons of Ben and the River End ultras.

We all saw a fast, attacking match with Chivas getting it back to 2-2 after Justin Braun beat goalie Mondragon to a long ball.
But DR Congo substitute Danny Mwanga had the last word with a well struck winner for the Union.

It was a long trip back to downtown, via the shuttle, a bus to the 69th street terminal (where there was plenty of activity including fans leaving after watching the US lose to Mexico in the Gold Cup) then the subway to the centre by about midnight.

New York again.

Amtrak to New York.

Actually I went to Newark initially to check-in at my hotel.

New York Yankees 6 Colorado Rockies 4

Then it was a fraught trip across to Brooklyn using the PATH train (poor weekend service),
battling through the Gay Pride Parade (don’t ask) and onto the subway to Yankee stadium.
Not what I needed after at the end of a long trip.

I arrived at about 2.20pm when the game was scheduled to start at 2.05pm, checked the situation & found the only available tickets were priced at $250 (!)

However my luck changed firstly to quickly get a $125 ticket from scalper for $50 then to find that there had been an old-timers game before the start of the main event which now began at 2.30pm.

So I calmed down with a large, frozen margarita (I was asked to show ID - I was tempted to show my bus pass)
And as it turned out the seat was excellent - row 1 of the second tier, close to the batter.

In warm, sunny weather I could enjoy the Yankees swotting some home runs in front of a packed crowd (47,894)

A tedious journey back to Newark but the compensation of a quality rib-eye steak as my last meal in the USA on this visit.

By the time I got home, and including the Sao Paulo trip ,the estimated miles covered was 29,000 (46,600 km) and, not surprisingly, I was tired by the end.

more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/813189540

UEFA Europa Cup Final 2011

2011-05-21T01:32:00.000-07:00

Europa League Final 2011 in Dublin.

Sporting Braga 0 Porto 1.

Played at the redeveloped Lansdowne Road stadium the second Europa League final was contested by two Portuguese teams.

Not the two most people had hoped for as Benfica v Porto would probably been a better encounter and definitely a superior atmosphere.

And not only that as the city was also hosting the first visit of the queen to Ireland it meant getting around the central area was a trial due to the extensive security.

Personally it meant considerable extra walking as the operation of the luas (tram) was suspended on two occasions when I was on it.

Around the ground there were plenty of opportunities to buy tickets and numerous spare seats inside the stadium.
Which looked impressive enough in green except for the very small area behind one of the goals.

The Porto fans outnumbered their fellow countrymen and their team were favourites to win the trophy.

In the end they did with a header from leading scorer Falcao just before half time.

Braga’s best chance, just after the break, fell to substitute Mossoro whose shot was well saved by Helton.

As might have been predicted it was a game of few chances very occasionally enhanced by threats from the talented Hulk.

Despite some late Braga pressure Porto (and especially their young coach) had done enough to secure the win

The event, played in breezy cool conditions, could only really be described as 'OK' and the overall Dublin experience was overshadowed by the monarch’s visit.

France May 2011

2011-05-21T01:29:00.000-07:00

Two games in France - the highlight being the visit of Marseille to Lorient.

Pretty good in pink.

Evian Thonon Gaillard 3 Troyes 0.

ETG looked like a more than a decent side as they maintained their leadership of the second division in France.

Their current base in Annecy, in the Rhone-Alps region, is one of the more attractive football locations.
In bright sunny weather the old town, the lake and the mountain backdrop provided a most conducive atmosphere.

The ground itself is an athletics venue with a track, curved terracing at the ends and two similar stands.

With ETG going well there was a large turnout of over 8,000 with many entering late plus a handful from Troyes.

ETG looked dangerous throughout this game, scoring first via the head of the impressive Angoula.
He would cause the Troyes goalie to fumble and allow an easy second.

The visitors also had a bad second period with two red cards, the second for a tackle from behind in the closing minutes.
Prior to that full back Djadjedje had driven in a great 30 yarder.

Late on Lorient.

Lorient 2 Olympique Marseille 2.

This was destined to be an attractive encounter with OM still going for the title, Lorient being strong at home and some excellent striking talent on show.

The town centre ground hosted one of the best attendances of the season, nearly 17,000, to witness a compelling match played a consistently fast pace on the ‘3G’ pitch.

Marseille as usual had good support with around 500 fans in a corner wedge and others dotted around the stadium.

The local manic ‘compere’ had stoked up the atmosphere beforehand and both teams kept the show going.
Loic Remy gave OM the lead on 14 minutes after going past a defender and slotting home right footed.

As the first half wore on the visitors had more possession but couldn’t extend their lead.

After the break Lorient came out with a purpose and equalised early on through Kone’s header.
They pushed hard at OM and got much more play as the match progressed.

Into the final ten minutes and we saw why Kevin Gameiro is causing such interest as he quickly latched onto a right wing cross. He always looked very sharp.

As OM’s championship chances drifted away sub. Gignac did get one back with a nicely taken goal.
And in the final minutes Marseille’s Benoit Cheyrou somehow contrived to miss a short range header from a setup by Abriel.

Perhaps it wouldn’t make any difference as Lille were long odds-on to complete the double but Cheyrou probably won’t forget that miss for a while.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/773090298

Italy May 2011

2011-05-12T03:55:00.000-07:00

A three game trip to Italy including watching the visit of Napoli to Lecce.

Agony in Abruzzo.

Pescara 0 Livorno 1.

All caused by a goalie error in the 14th minute as the Pescara custodian fumbled a shot by the Livorno captain, Danilevicius.

A large crowd of over 18,000 came to see if the local team could get close to the Serie B play-offs, they went home encouraged by their players efforts but dismayed by the outcome.

Livorno wasted time, looked dangerous on the break and tended to stifle Pescara’s play.
They now have more of a chance to make the top six.

Despite it being a fairly cool night near the Adriatic many fans couldn’t resist stopping for an ice cream on the way home. I resisted.

Moderate in Modena.

Modena 1 Grosseto 1.

A stop in Modena on a roundabout route from Pescara to Brindisi.

The stadium is handily close to the railway and bus station.
It comprises a, neat, mostly covered single tier with the away fans (about 50) to the left and the home ultras to the right.

The main interest following Greco’s cross conversion was the annoyance caused by Sforzini the Grosseto top scorer and an ex-Modena player. He had headed the equaliser and generally antagonised the crowd, many of which hurled abuse at him throughout most of the match.

Apart from that the game settled into a stalemate even though there was 6 minutes of added time at the end.

Time enough to make the Bologna airport bus and flight to Brindisi.

Sensation in Salento.

Lecce 2 Napoli 1.

A famous win for Lecce after Uruguayan substitute Chevanton had struck a dramatic winner sparking much local celebration.
His shot, following a terrific move thumped against the bar and came down just about over the line.
For a moment there was some doubt and despite the Napoli protests the goal was given.

Most of the action in this game was in the second half including two red cards, the first seemed a little unlucky for the initial goalscorer, Corvia.
But the other for Napoli top scorer Cavani was clear - a second yellow for a silly tackle.

One of the Napoli substitutes, Mascara, had glanced in an equaliser and it looked like the visitors, well backed by their travelling fans, would at least go home with a point.
That was until the intervention of the popular Chevanton.

The result moved Lecce out of the bottom three and dented Napoli’s chances of finishing as runners-up to newly crowned champions, Milan.

After the match I took the long stroll back, in pleasant sunny weather, to the centre and onto the convenient 6.05 train back to Brindisi.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/767565362

Germany, Luxembourg & Holland April 2011

2011-04-28T03:01:00.000-07:00

This was a six game trip that took in a visit to Germany including seeing the temporary stadium in Dusseldorf as well as games in Luxembourg and the Netherlands.

Unhappy Aue.

Erzgebirge Aue 1 Energie Cottbus 2.

If you look on the map Aue is a small place going towards the Czech border in eastern Germany.
You might suppose not many fans would turn out to see their games but judging by traffic going into the town I soon realised that was certainly not the case.

They are after all doing well in the 2.Bundesliga and obviously draw in fans from the surrounding area (14,000 in this case)

It was a pleasant evening in Saxony but it was the visitors who had the upper hand scoring, ironically following an Erzgebirge corner, from a breakaway in the first half.

The home team brought on two subs at the break and eventually they did get a penalty but Glasner’s shot was saved.
Then on 65 minutes we had a ten minute interlude as the Cottbus ultras set off flares, the situation subsequently being calmed with the help of some of the away players.

The break didn’t help Aue who went further behind late on as top scorer Petersen converted a rebound.
A late header was only a consolation.

I strolled down the hill, past the small station and drove back to Erfurt.

Late drama.

F91 Dudelange 2 Swift Hesperange 1.

Not many options for games on this Easter Friday so I ventured into Luxembourg for this Cup encounter between the league champions and their visitors from Hesperange.

The ground is basically two sides with a refreshments area at one end. I’d had a weiss beer sharpener beforehand and topped that up with a glass of red wine in the ground.

About 300 watched what felt like a English non-league game in low-key, friendly, surroundings with the local kids having a kick around at half-time.

Although Swift did try to pass it F91 always looked more likely.
They led after 70 minutes, got pegged back after a goalie error and just as we thought extra time was certain they were awarded a disputed penalty and the centre forward converted.

Hot Rot.

Wehen Wiesbaden 0 Rot Weiss Erfurt 1.

Both these teams are well placed in the 3.Liga although it was Erfurt who generally held the edge.
The winner, via a longish throw, came in the 10th minute.

Wehen struggled to create for much of the match.

The newish stadium is a typical setup of medium sized stands and end terracing where at the left hand end Erfurt had brought a good sized support.

Easy Roda.

Roda 5 NAC Breda 1.

I drove the two and a quarter hours from Wiesbaden to Kerkrade for this Dutch top level game.

Having previously had trouble finding this stadium (at night) this time it was far easier on a warm, dry Spring evening.
It remains an unusual development with the in-built hotel and shopping areas.

Fortified by some nuggets and chips (no mayonnaise) I watched Roda demolish NAC starting with three goals in 26 minutes.
NAC got their consolation late in the first half but mostly all they could do was admire the home team’s play.

Further goals from a penalty and another after a defensive mistake sealed the win.

Matthew Amoah had no luck up front for NAC despite making many runs and hitting the post near the end.

Air Berlin World.

Fortuna Dusseldorf 2 Arminia Bielefeld 0.

This was the second of three games being played by Fortuna at a temporary stadium as their next door main Arena is being prepared for the Eurovision Song Contest.

Its hard to see why this would happen, there being no shortage of stadiums in the region, but Air Berlin World/Park worked well enough to accommodate over 18,000 fans in the usual mix of standing and seating.

You have to assume Fortuna are not losing money so perhaps this will be a future trend ?

In a decent atmosphere in warm, dry conditions Fortuna did enough to defeat a Bielefeld side lacking confidence and already relegated.

One goal in each half decided the match.

I took the U-bahn back to the centre and onward to my hotel in Bonn.

Fortuna Koln 3 Germania Windeck 1.

Again limited realistic options for Easter Monday so I chose an easy train ride to Cologne for this Oberliga match between the teams in second and third.

Fortuna have a old style ground of covered stand and curved terracing.

Around 1,000 turned out on another very pleasant day to see the home side earn a solid win going 2-0 ahead, conceding one before the excellent Fabian Montabell header the clincher.

The locals included some lively ultras noisly enhanced by a couple of guys with megaphones.

I strolled back to the South station, past the swingers club and second on the left.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/754365289.

France April 2011

2011-04-13T01:39:00.000-07:00

This was a Eurostar and train trip to Northern France taking in the Brittany derby between Brest and Rennes.

Vannes in front.

Boulogne 0 Vannes 1.

After a Grimbergen I strolled around the ramparts before joining the 9,000+ fans (though it looked a few thousand less than that figure)

The stadium is a patchwork of temporary looking and more permanent stands with the local ultras in the left hand end.

The winner was headed in by Diguiny half way through the first half.

Though the home side made some second period changes it didn’t make much difference as Vannes general looked in control and continued to be dangerous from breakaways.

Brittany spheres.

Palbennec 0 Bastia 3.

This was a 3rd level match between league leaders Bastia and Plabennec.

Plabennec is a small town close to Brest and I got to the game about fifteen minutes before the start after a long train ride from Boulogne via Paris.

The ground has one elevated stand which was well populated on a sunny Saturday afternoon.
There is a bar behind one goal and a semi-temporary stand for the away fans to the left hand end in which Bastia had about 40 supporters.

Though both teams hit the woodwork early on the result was never in doubt as Bastia were a class above their opponents.
They stay on track for promotion.

I took the bus back to Brest and had a kebab panini in the logically named ‘Brest Food’ takeaway.

Brest 2 Rennes 0.

This derby was a local triumph for the home side who were well up for this match against their 3rd placed Ligue 1 rivals.

Everyone waved their flags (I gave mine away) to create a decent atmosphere in the 15,000 crowd.

Rennes brought their ultras, many of whom I saw before the game around the Place de Strasbourg.
But they would go home disappointed as Brest were the better team, especially in midfield, allowing the visitors few opportunities.

Nathan Roux fired in an inspiring 30 yarder for the first and the excellent Grougi got the second to seal the win.

At the end the home side, and their fans, could enjoy a well earned win.

I had a brisk walk back to the centre as the car horns sounded.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/738523004

France & Belgium April 2011

2011-04-06T05:25:00.000-07:00

A three game long weekend Eurostar and train trip to France and Belgium.

Le Havre 1 Istres 2 in French Ligue 2

This 1938 World Cup ground will soon be replaced by a new stadium going up the other side of the railway lines.

For this Friday evening encounter over 8000 turned out to see second placed Le Havre beaten by the visitors from the south.

After a regulation goalless first half of few chances we had more action in the second.

Istres took the lead early on and, as Le Havre pushed forward, they extended their advantage with a breakaway second goal.

The young home side converted a late penalty but Istres held on for the victory.

The league is amazingly close with just twelve points separating the top sixteen teams.

OH Leuven 3 Tournai 0.

Via Paris and Brussels to Leuven for this Belgian 2nd level match.

On a warm and at times humid Saturday evening in the very amenable town of Leuven I watched the league leaders have a reasonably comfortable win over the bottom team.

Tournai had about 40 fans (in the left hand end) plus the 3500 home fans.

Leuven won by being strong at set pieces and exploiting the pacy Tunisian Harbaoui up front.

I strolled afterwards to the attractive central area - thronged with beer drinkers.

Vise 1 Roeselare 3.

I took the train from Leuven via Liege to the small town of Vise for another 2nd league fixture.

Though it rained early on the weather brightened up by the 3pm start.

Vise have a smaller ground comprising two sides with a typical bar area at one end.
I partook of some wine and watched the cycling on the TV, along with quite a few others.

As is often the case team sheets were freely available.

Roeselare always looked in control after scoring early, soon adding a second and getting a third after 55 minutes.
Despite one reply from the home side they struggled to create much and the visitors ran out winners.

Back in Leuven the impressive Scala/Kolacny Brothers rock choir were performing outside the large central church to finish off my evening.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/730567836.

Paraguay & Uruguay March 2011

2011-03-22T05:02:00.000-07:00

The other part of my trip to South America included visits to Paraguay and Uruguay.

Libertad 5 Universidad San Martin 1.

I followed Shakira to Asuncion and actually stayed near her Sheraton Hotel.
(or did she follow me ?)
I, obviously, chose not to go to her concert and instead watched Libertad easily beat their visitors from Peru.

Libertad thus went to the top of their group and they looked like a decent outfit.

This was the first time Libertad had played a Copa match at their own updated smallish stadium.
And some 8,000 turned out on a steamy evening in Asuncion.

Those fans enjoyed themselves with plenty of streamers, fireworks and smoke.
Certainly their team didn’t let them down coming back from an early away goal to out-pass and decisively beat San Martin.

Rubio Nu 1 3 de Febrero 0.

The stadium La Arboleda housed about 250 fans for this 5pm Wednesday afternoon top level encounter in the Santisima Trinidad barrio of Asuncion.

The home side needed just one goal to beat their visitors and they spent most of the second half content to absorb the pressure.

Guarani 1 Estudiantes 2 in the Copa Libertadores.

This match was played in the large Defensores del Chaco (national) stadium in Asuncion.

Though it could have been played in a much smaller ground as only about 1200 fans were there on a late Wednesday evening.

There was a lively group from La Plata to cheer on their team.

Guarani needed the points as they are last in the group but they looked second best against an Estudiantes side minus Juan Veron.

The home side did go in front after a defender’s push resulted in a converted penalty.
But soon after the break the Argentinians scored two quick goals including an excellent strike from Gonzalez.

Estudiantes negotiated the remainder of the game and their goalie dodged the flying bottles aimed at him.

Cerro Porteno 1 Deportivo Tachira (Venezuela) 1.

The third Copa Libertadores fixture in Asuncion played at Cerro´s home in a well filled stadium.

On another steamy night I joined some radio commentators in watching this one.

The ground has a 32,000 capacity being mostly open with the main ultras at the left hand end.

Cerro are one of the two biggest clubs in Asuncion and they expect success.
But on this night despite taking the lead they were pegged back by the visitors from Venezuela who played well, especially in the second half.

Liverpool 0 Nacional 2.

I took the fast ferry and bus to Montevideo hoping for some milder weather after the heat of Asuncion and Buenos Aires.
What I got was torrential rain one day and high winds and cooler conditions on the second day.

This first game was played at the famous Centenario stadium.

As expected the Nacional fans came in their thousands with a much smaller number supporting the green and black of Liverpool.
After ten minutes the heavens opened and the Nacional hinchas cranked up the noise.

Their team had the edge scoring fairly early on and staying in control most of time.

The Centenario has that feeling of history being the stadium that staged the very first World Cup and its iconic structure - the tower - presents a memorable image as a backdrop to watching a match.

El Tanque Sisley 1 Central Espanol 0.

I´m not sure the significance of the Sisley tank however this top division game was more like a non league encounter judging by the surroundings of Carrasco Norte at 10.15am on a Sunday morning.

There was about equal numbers of home and away fans totally around 300.
Many sat on basic bench seats.

El T scored in the first half through their Cameroonian centre forward and then were content to mostly defend in the 2nd period.

I took a taxi to central Montevideo to relax before setting out for Cerro.

Cerro 0 Penarol 2.

A few kilometres to north of the centre the area of Cerro brought out the locals to watch the most successful team in Uruguay come into town.

This was a time to arrive early as the good seats in the platea were soon taken up about an hour before the 4.30pm start.

The fans Penarol came in large numbers and packing the opposite terrace. Whilst the home ultras were behind the right hand goal (the other end being unused)

After a fairly even first period when both sides hit the woodwork Penarol took the lead with a great left foot strike by Pacheco.
Soon after they added to the advantage and generally held out for the expected victory.

At the end the home fans sent a cascade of debris at the Penarol players and the away fans proceeded to break down some of the fences, by then I had made my exit via one of the taxis waiting outside.

(part 2) more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/715016177

Argentina February/March 2011

2011-03-22T04:42:00.000-07:00

This trip to South America included games in Argentina, Paraguay and Uruguay.

Estudiantes La Plata 1 Deportivo Tolima 0.

The trip began with a Copa Libertadores game between the Argentinian Apertura champions and their visitors from Colombia.

The match was played in the revamped La Plata city stadium before a typically passionate 36,000 with only a hundred or so away fans.

The stadium has the addition of a partial roof, improved seating and some European style updating including a central scoreboard that those that operate it still had to get used to.

The changes did enhance the typically passionate atmosphere, the noise being so loud some of the children had to cover their ears.

Tolima showed some useful skills and Estudiantes had some dodgy moments in defence but eventually, prompted by Juan Veron, the home side got on top and sealed victory via a familiar left footed free kick from the right.

The fans were able to leave quickly and I got the bus back to Buenos Aires.

Atletico Rafaela 4 San Martin (San Juan) 1 in Nacional B (second level)

Following an interminable, ten hour, bus journey from Buenos Aires through flat countryside of fields and not much else I arrived at Rafaela.

The town has the feel of a slightly more affluent location with a pleasant centre, convenient hotels and a nearby stadium.

The home side are challenging at the top of the league and they won this convincingly.
Starting with a penalty and followed by two more goals in the first half.

San Martin did get a late consolation but they were well beaten.

The ground has a two tier end for the ultras plus some Boca-like boxes opposite.

I could stroll back to my hotel after the match and have a couple of Caipirinhas before midnight.

Colon Santa Fe 1 Gimnasia La Plata 3.

This time the bus trip, from Rafaela to Santa Fe, was only 2 hours or so.

Colon are doing some development on their ground, as its another being used for the Copa America. They’re adding a second tier to one end and boxes above the main stand area.

20,000 hinchas turned out (including a good number from La Plata) on a warm evening to watch the home team fairly well beaten by Gimnasia who had the outstanding player in the no.10, Juan Neira.
He scored twice including a clever free kick.

Colon did reply to the first strike straightaway but generally struggled to get their game going.
Gimnasia finished them off near the end.

Racing Cordoba 0 Deportivo Maipu 0.

Another longish, 5 hour, bus journey however this time it ran pretty much to time.

Racing are one of a number of clubs in Cordoba and they have a decent stadium although only 3,000 fans were there on this Saturday evening for an Argentino A, 3rd level, fixture with just a handful of non ultras from Mendoza.

No goals and not many goalmouth incidents.
But there were plenty of other incidents as two home players got sent off, the (local) stretcher bearers tussled with the away coach, the referee got plenty of abuse and Maipu, bottom of the league, wasted time mercilessly.

I left quickly as the mayhem mounted at the end of the game.

Independiente Rivadavia 1 Union Santa Fe 2.

A Nacional B encounter in front of 8,000 fans at this Mendoza based club.

The ground is not too far from the larger Estadio Malvinas in a large park to the east of the city.
It has an older style main stand, a largish end for the ultras and some development going on at the other end.

The local hinchas brought their fireworks and flares and that enhanced the atmosphere though in the end their team were well beaten by Union with Quiroga heading the winner.

Afterwards I had an idyllic walk back to my central hotel through the park, in very pleasant weather, and past the wine festival joining the locals taking their glasses around each stall.

In a way Mendoza was a little piece of heaven - not only the football but as a world renowned wine centre.

Instituto 0 Atletico Tucuman 1.

Back to Cordoba to see two teams challenging at the top of Nacional B.

This was the first match at which i´d seen a programme during this trip.
And for one teenager near me it was not for reading (or collecting) as he tore it up and threw it into the air as the players emerged.
Not something you often see in England.

There was a superb atmosphere created by the 15,000 locals but this was not reflected in their teams display as Atletico had the match winner (he got a 10 in the sports paper) - the no.8 Chavez.
Always lively and with non stop running up front he scored a Messi-like winner with a dribble and chip.

It was well deserved, and a shame they had no fans to witness it, since Atletico were always on top getting numerous corners and better, sharper possession.

The ground (visible from the air on the way in) is painted red & white and capable of holding 25,000.

Godoy Cruz 1 Penarol 3.

And a return to Mendoza for this Copa Libertadores 2nd phase game.

It was played in the spacious Estadio Malvinas - another Copa America venue.

I´d seen some fans from Uruguay earlier in the day in the centre of the city.
The had an armed escort accompanying their buses to the stadium.

Certainly the 700 visiting fans had plenty to shout about as Penarol scored in the first minute when Olivera was left unmarked to head in.
Despite Godoy Cruz getting back on terms this always looked fairly comfortable for Penarol after Olivera scored another header before half time.

The home side found it difficult to set up their chances except near the end.

We had a ten minute break for a partial floodlight failure but it didn’t stop the visitors from sealing the win.

As away wins tend to be fairly unusual in the Copa Lib. this looked a vital victory.
It was only the second Copa home game for Godoy Cruz..

This time it was a longer walk back to the centre, through more of the park, alongside the downcast locals.

Velez Sarsfield 3 Universidad Catolica 4.

A terrific Copa Libertadores encounter watched by 20,000 including about 800 from Chile, who provided good support for their team.

Again we had an early goal when the home goalie failed to stop a shot from Pratto. Velez fought back and by half time were 3.-1 up though that score was somewhat flattering.

The Chileans came out for the second and attacked scoring first from an inspirational shot from Costa.
Then Pratto would get his second with another excellent strike and in the final minutes Catolica broke away in another well worked move to finish off Velez.

Barracas Central 2 Comunicaciones 0.

The first of two Primera B (third level) games in different parts of Buenos Aires.

The area around the Barracas ground has a reputation but on this hot and sunny Friday afternoon it was calm enough.

Before a small crowd the home side were mostly in control led by their excellent centre forward who headed them into the lead. Comu (with no fans) looked limited.

Deportivo Moron 1 San Carlos 1. in the 9pm game.

It was a comfortabe enough double if not a comfortable train ride (crowded .- locals jumping through the windows to get a seat)

Moron have a good sized stadium with a large side and right hand end (for the ultras)
The other end had a few fans presumably from San Carlos.

The away side scored first , a header from a corner against the run of play. Moron got the equaliser after a good move, cross, and conversion by their striker.

Later in the second period it settled into a stalemate. I went back to central Buenos Aires via Once station.

Atlanta 1 Defensores de Cambeceres 2.

Atlanta, based near Chacarita station are top of Primera C (fourth level) and plenty of their fans watched this one in very hot conditions.

Though the home side began well and took the lead Defensores, in fifth place, equalised against the run of play in the first half.
Despite having a man sent off the away team went ahead and they were able to hold on well enough helped by Atlanta also having a men getting a red card.

The locals, 9000 of them, provided good support.

Racing 4 Olimpo 3.

I took the train back to Retiro, subte across to Constitution and then another train to Avellaneda in good time for the late kick off on this Saturday night.

35,000 fans in total and loads packed into the Ímperial Guard´section behind the goal. The ultras produced a typically large flag and kept up the noise throughout.

They had a lot to cheer about in the first half as Racing cut thru the Olimpo defence three times adding a fourth early in the second period.
But Olimpo are challenging at the top of the league and they fought back with three quick efforts making it a nervy finish for home side. But they held on and you could hear them singing some way up the street.

Tiro Federal 0 Instituto 0.

The second goalless draw of the trip and a very low key affair in Rosario.
It was totally in contrast to watching Central or Newell’s as Tiro are a small team with a ground for which only one side was being used (there is redevelopment at one end and ´boxes´opposite)

The game had few moments of interest, both teams hit the woodwork but the rest was effort but little result.

Tigre 1 Banfield 2.

Back to Buenos Aires for the late Friday night game in Victoria, north of the centre.

Where the 17,000 fans included a lively group from Banfield who are doing well in the Clausura.

The visitors went ahead when Garcia was there to convert a cross and although Tigre fought back Banfield had the last word with a late goal following a route one goalie clearance.

Huracan 2 Quilmes 1.

This was a relegation battle in the Argentinian Clausura.

And you had to feel for Quilmes whose fans provided good support as they gifted Huracan two goals with defensive errors.
The visitors did score with ten minutes remaining, again helped by an error, but despite late pressure Huracan and their fans could celebrate their first win of the season.

This was my second visit to Huracan´s stadium and at least this time the match was played in dry, pleasantly cool weather (last time it rain hard)

The ground has had some updating with improved seating, the iconic tower still stands out (just like at the Centenario) although the scoreboard has gone and it remains virtually entirely open.
The architectural detail does add to the stadiums’ style.

Argentinos Juniors 0 Nacional (Uruguay) 1.

Finally - a visit to the Diego Armando Maradona stadium to see Nacional beat Argentinos in the Libertadores.

Nacional brought plenty of fans from Montevideo to fill the terrace section opposite the main stand.

Their team generally had the upper hand against a stuttering home side who failed to perform.

One goal was enough but with some prompting from the Argentinian Gallardo the away team might have some more goals in the second period.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/714930808

Denmark & France February 2011

2011-02-16T03:40:00.000-08:00

Denmark 1 England 2
at the Parken stadium in Copenhagen.

This friendly often seemed like a high level kick around with very few tackles until the final few minutes as the home side realised they were going to lose.

But both teams can say they passed the ball around well although Denmark had the standout player in Christian Eriksen.

For England Wilshere looked at home in midfield as did Scott Parker when he came on in the second half.
But neither defence looked fully secure.

It is hard to tell how significant this win will be with much more serious competitive tests to come but at least it’s an away victory.

Watching the game it was almost too hot under the closed roof and then too cold outside in the wind.

Nimes 0 Dijon 2 in the French Ligue 2.

I’d seen the small group of away fans close to the famous, well preserved, Roman amphitheatre in the centre of town.
Later they had no trouble finding space behind the goal to watch their team beat the hosts at the pleasant Stade des Costieres in bright and mild conditions.

Both teams are in mid-table but it was Dijon who passed better and after a moderate first period they went ahead when Caceres controlled and shot in.

Uruguayan Sebastian Ribas sealed the win in the closing minutes.

For the home side Steve Haguy did some good work down the right, a Gigliotti free kick glanced the post and Niflore also hit the post but they were greeted with boos at the final whistle.

Arles Avignon 0 Montpellier 0 in Ligue 1.

I was able to get a convenient train after the Nimes game back to Avignon followed by a taxi to the Parc des Sports.

Where the highlight was the performance of the Montpellier fans who produced an impressive display of flares, flags and fence rattling.

The ground has temporary style seats at either end and low level seating opposite the main stand. The attendance was given as 8500 and there were around 400 away fans.

But the game itself had little goalmouth action with one of the best chances being badly fluffed by Geoffrey Dernis.

So Arles gained a point but they stay well adrift at the bottom of the league.

Rennes 2 Nice 0.

Another top level encounter that saw Rennes move up to second, five points behind Lille.

Their stadium is an impressive, covered, 30,000 seater in which there was just a handful of fans from Nice.

The conditions on this Sunday afternoon felt like a February in England - cold and wet.

After an opening period of few chances Rennes stepped up the play to score through Victor Hugo Montano and then via a penalty from Boukari.
The home forwards, with some prompting by the skillful Yann M’Vila, had done enough to consolidate the win.

Nice, with few away goals all season, never really looked like getting back into it despite a David Bellion header.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/680928457

Israel January 2011

2011-02-03T02:47:00.000-08:00

‘You were on holiday in Israel’ I asked of my elderly fellow passengers on the flight back to the UK.

‘No - we were at a prayer conference in Jerusalem’

Well its an option, alternatively you could watch some football...

Hapoel Nazareth Illit 3 Hapoel Amidar Ramat Gan 2 in the Israeli ‘first division’.

It being Friday the most cost effective way to get to Nazareth and back to Tel Aviv was to hire a car and drive the 100km or so.

This I did as well as having a wander around the old city.

The Green stadium, named after the benefactors, is fairly new comprising two sides of open seating.
A small crowd watched a fairly moderate first half but a much more eventful second period.
The presence of a female official (reference Andy Gray) passed off without too much notice.

Amidar Ramat Gan led after about 15 minutes from set piece and they were edging the game.

Early in the second half Nazareth Illit got the equaliser only for the visitors to go ahead again from a nice chip by their no.8.
However Amidar had Ugochukwo sent off for stupid shove on a Nazareth forward and soon after the home side drew level again.

In the final minutes there was more drama as the Amidar goalie received a red card for handling outside the area.
And the nine men couldn’t stop the resulting free kick from Zano going in for the winner in the closing moments.

A well celebrated home win that helped Nazareth Illit’s battle against relegation (and their attempts to overcome points deductions)

On the next day,Saturday, I saw two matches beginning with -

Bnei Yehuda 2 Hapoel Askelon 0.
played at the Bloomfield stadium in Jaffa.

The stadium is home to three teams in the Israeli Premier League (higher profile Hapoel and Maccabi Tel Aviv being the others)
So this three o’clock kick off game was followed by Hapoel’s game at 7pm.

As the ground is quite close to the old city of Jaffa I took the time to have stroll around in the mild, sunny conditions.

Not too many turned up to watch this one, maybe 1000 at most, and they spent a lot of time moaning about their team.
But in the end Yehuda got the job done with two second half goals from Menashe and Galvan.
The few dozen Ashkelon fans went home disappointed.

It was an easy fifteen minute drive to the Winter stadium (also named after some benefactors)

Hapoel Ramat Gan 0 Ironi Kiryat Shmona 3.

Another Israeli Premier match played before a small crowd of a couple of hundred in cool but dry conditions.

Bottom of the table Ramat Gan gifted the visitors two goals with bad defensive mistakes and conceded another before half time.

Kiryat Shmona are a very competent side justifying their high place in the league.
They showed excellent passing skills throughout and were never troubled.

The stadium has two sides for spectators with a larger main stand and a lower level seating area opposite for the small but happy group of away fans.

There is very little cover, not that it mattered on this evening.

Lastly the Monday afternoon game:-

Bnei Lod 1 Ahva Arraba 0 .

It was very quiet near the Haberfeld stadium in Rishon le Zion which initially made me think I was in the wrong place but google maps and the Israeli FA info. had proven correct.

Only about 100 fans and a couple cats watched this ‘first division’ encounter on a cool evening to the south of Tel Aviv..

Bottom of the table Arraba had played well enough in the first half without really threatening.

But Bnei Lod eventually overcame their opponents with a late winner when substitute no.9 found space and crossed for Abu Anze to score from close range.
Arraba hadn’t helped their cause by having Biton sent off for slapping a Lod player.

At the end the locals celebrated and some of the players kissed the turf.

I negotiated my exit and took the no 84 bus back to central Tel Aviv.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/666815176

Asian Cup Qatar January 2011

2011-01-19T01:55:00.000-08:00

‘It’s very pleasant here in the winter sunshine, a big contrast to the bad weather in the UK’

‘Yes’ the Qatari local replied ‘But you would hate it in the summer’.
So much for playing the 2022 World Cup in June in Qatar.

The 2011 Asian Cup didn’t have any such issues.

7th January Qatar v Uzbekistan 0-2 at the Khalifa Stadium Doha.

A typically no-expenses spared firework show making it an effective, vibrant, opening to this edition of the Asian Cup.

But in many ways that was as good as it got on this Friday afternoon for the home fans who turned out in large numbers to fill the Khalifa Stadium (where I had seen England play Brazil)

Their team generally created few chance and lost out to the Uzbeks in terms of possession.
The White Wolves found gaps in the home defence but didn’t have the quality to exploit it in the first period although a Geynrikh effort did glance the post.
Brazilian Fabio got closest for Qatar with a free kick that brushed the post.

In the second half Uzebikstan went ahead with a terrific 30 yd drive from Ahmedov which was somewhat out of character from the rest of the match.
They doubled their lead with about 15 minutes to go when a defensive pass was misplaced and Djeparov scored easily.

Soon enough the crowd drifted away and Qatar had a disappointing start to their hosting of the Asian Cup.
A cynic might suggest they have another 11 years to hire some more Brazilians.

8th January Al Gharafa Stadium Kuwait v China 0-2.

Initially China had more possession although Kuwait had the better chances and a good shout for a penalty.
But Kuwait subsequently had a man sent off for a kick at the China striker and though it took them some time China eventually went ahead. They sealed the win with a left footed free kick from Deng.

Kuwait never really got close after that and it was a good start for the young Chinese team.

The fans were in some ways more passionate than in the first game with a good number of Kuwaiti fans and a contingent from China - both sets of fans being next to each other on the side of the stadium.

As usual the conditions were very good and the weather mild and dry.

Afterwards it was back to the Ramada hotel for refreshments.

January 9th Japan 1 Jordan 1 in the Qatar Sports Club stadium.

There was plenty of support for Jordan in the Sports club ground close to the skyscraper area - nice views of the skyline being visible from the main stand.

Japan were expected to win but they missed some chances in the first half and found themselves 1-0 down just before the break after a deflected shot eluded their goalie.

The Blue Samurai took until added time to finally get the equaliser as the Jordanians defended well and also held up the ball whenever possible.

Japan are likely to get better particularly Borussia Dortmund’s talent Kagawa who often found space, showed good movement and has two good feet.

January 10th Australia 4 India 0 in the Al Sadd stadium.

The Al Sadd is a nice, smallish, European style stadium being enclosed and covered.

India, despite their noisy, idiosyncratic support, were lightweight and never going to trouble the top-ranked Australians.

The Aussies scored early when Tim Cahill converted a Brett Emerton cross.

He would head in another later on whilst Harry Kewell struck a decisive left footer.

The game was never a contest.

Also on the 10th South Korea 2 Bahrain 1 in the Al Gharafa.

It takes about a half hour in a car between the two venues.
Not too big a crowd in the Al Gharafa with just small groups from Korea and a section supporting the Bahrainis.

The Gulf team were generally negative in trying to nullifying the much higher rated Koreans.
Their attempts failed as the East Asians scored twice, both from Koo.

Bahrain did get a dubious penalty near the end which also resulted in a Korean defender being harshly red-carded. They scored but it was only a consolation.

Neither game on this day had hit the heights.

Tuesday 11th January North Korea 0 UAE 0 in the Qatar Sports Club.

North Korea are not noted for their goalscoring.
But this time they should have, squandering a penalty as Hong’s shot hit the bar and went over. No doubt his ‘Dear Leader’ will be understanding and he may not go to the salt mines.

After that early opportunity UAE eventually had better possession and some chances.

The Korean team had a group of fans (in shirts and ties) chanting and flag waving in unison and their Gulf opponents had a group of supporters further along in the seats.
But overall the attendance was the lowest so far, about 3,500.

Later on the game became a stalemate and we had the first goalless draw of the 2011 Asian Cup.

Also on the 11th Iraq 1 Iran 2 at the Al Rayyan stadium.

Following a 30 minute car ride between the two venues.

The Al Rayyan is a replica of the Al Garafa stadium except for the red and black seats (covered main stand and open seating in the other areas)

This game was a decent contest played generally in a good spirit.

Both sides had quality players and they were well supported by their lively fans opposite the main stand (and seated next to each other) with slightly more Iraqi fans the Iranians.

Iraq scored first following a long cross that eluded the goalie allowing Emad to nod over him and for striker Mahmoud to put it in for 1-0.
But Iran kept good possession and they equalised after Rezaei beat the offside trap to slot in right footed.

In the second half Mahmoud made a good break but didn’t supply an accurate enough cross, overall he was well contained by the Iran defence.

It took a late free kick on the left by Mobali that beat everyone including the goalkeeper to win it for Iran, much to the delight of the their players and fans.

Again the Ramada was the choice for beer and discussions.

January 12th at the Khalifa stadium Qatar 2 China 0.

Qatar got back on track with a solid win over China.

They found a new hero in Yousef Ahmed who scored both goals, the first after good control and an unstoppable volley, the second an accurate low shot that eluded the Chinese goalie.
Though the Chinese had some chances in the first half they seemed unable to react effectively when two nil down in the second half.

So the hosts are back in the mix and the home fans had something to celebrate.

We took a taxi back to the centre and had a kebab.

January 13th at Al Rayyan Jordan 1 Saudi Arabia 0.

Many of the Saudis had driven over from the Kingdom (some 100km + away) to watch their team on this Thursday afternoon.

They would go home very disappointed.

Jordan also had many fans making in a vibrant atmosphere with a crowd of over 17,000.

The match was settled when Abdulrahman’s speculative cross floated over the badly positioned Saudi goalie for the winner.

Much as the favoured Saudis tried they couldn’t get past the strong Jordan defence.

No doubt another coach will be sacked.

Also on the 13th January at the Qatar Sports Club Syria 1 Japan 2.

Another good, five figure, crowd and an apparent sell-out with the Syrians enjoying plenty of local support.

Japan went ahead in the first half in a move involving Kagawa finished by Hasebe.

As the match developed Japan looked fairly comfortable and the crowd became quieter.

The controversy came after 70 minutes when the Iranian referee gave what seemed a bad decision. The Japan had brought down the Syria forward but the attacker looked clearly offside.
Anyway it was a penalty (scored by Al Khatib) and a red card for the goalie.

Despite the setback Japan had the last word when Honda converted another penalty.

Because of the long delays, including many protests by the Japanese, we had 6 minutes of added time.
Not enough for Syria to equalise but time for Nadim Sabagh to get sent off.

Both teams had plenty of cause to berate the referee at the end.

Conclusions:

Qatar had a disappointing level of support at the opening game with few flags or songs.
The (slightly surreal) country itself could hardly be identified as a football hotbed.

Although the Qatar team started weakly they did progress beyond the group stages but they will find it tough to go much further.

At this point I would favour Australia and Japan to go close to winning the Cup.

The stadium facilities were fine, the pitches looked excellent and in general the attendances were perhaps slightly above those expected (boosted by the large numbers of guest workers)

The transport system will have to improve, they plan to build a metro system, as buses are limited and not predictable.
Traffic was also fairly bad at times with particularly slow movement at traffic lights and roundabouts.

Having said that the place has an Interesting mix/melting pot of races - principally Indians, Nepalese, Sri Lankans, Malayans, Pakistanis etc (we had an Eritrean driver for one ride)

If, as seems likely, the 2022 World Cup is moved to January the conditions should be pleasant and conducive for all.
And to expand the event into a Gulf World Cup would certainly provide some variety from the limited delights of Qatar/Doha.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/644294676

Spain December 2010

2010-12-21T06:52:00.000-08:00

Espanyol 1 Barcelona 5.

Masterclass.

In some ways you wish for a home goal to make the atmosphere even noisier but then again you can sit back and watch Barca play.
And so it was, they played.

The locals streets were crowded and the bars vibrant.
Inside they played their song and the fans displayed the blue and white colours.
Everyone was aware that Catalunya was more than one club.

Then you had to admire a Barca masterclass, of movement, speed and skill.

The visitors could afford to miss various chances, including a sitter by Lionel Messi.
But though he didn’t score Messi did supply three assists.
As Pedro and David Villa each got a couple of goals.

Osvaldo did score a excellent consolation for the home side but what can you do against probably the best team in the world at the moment ?

Not that too many locals enjoyed the result as they threw plenty of debris at the Barca players, with only Iniesta escaping the abuse.

Santa Andreu 1 Ontinyent 0 in Segunda B group 3.

Two games on the Sunday following the Barcelona derby.

Sant Andreu is a northern suburb of Barcelona and the local team have a decent sized inner city ground with a covered main stand plus open seating on the three other sides.

A few ultras brought some flags and a drum.

It was a game of few chances settled by substitute Blanco’s shot, at the second attempt, with about five minutes remaining.
Santa Andreu moved up to 6th with this win.

Barcelona B 1 Ponferradina 1 in the Segunda Division.

Played at the pleasant Mini Estadi within the shadow of the Camp Nou.

A couple of thousand turned out in the afternoon to watch Barca reserves.
They had few familiar names playing and despite showing typical passing skills were nothing like the ‘A’ team.
Although centre back Fontas did give a reasonable Pique impression.

The goals, both scored by substitutes, came close together in the final ten minutes with Barca guilty of losing concentration after they went ahead.

It got colder but nothing like wintry UK.

Some tapas and wine helped the mood.

more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/607137494

Belgium/France December 2010

2010-12-16T02:38:00.000-08:00

Tienen 0 Rupel Boom 2 in the Belgian 2nd Division.

I’d been fortified with scampi and chips plus a small carafe of red before watching this one.

The game itself didn’t produce so much quality but when it came it was the visitors who
delivered.
Two similar goals from close range headers sealed the away win.

Tienen’s cause wasn’t helped by having their goalie sent off late on but they never really found the final ball.
A decent number from Boom made the trip to a typical smallish ground, of low level seats/terrace with the usual abundance of adverts.

I caught the late train back to Brussels.

Paris FC 4 Magenta (New Caledonia) 0 in the French Cup.

From Brussels to Paris using the fast but costly Thalys train.

Paris play at the Stade Charlety , in the south of the city, the home of the rugby team Stade Francais.
The match was played in a somewhat surreal atmosphere with only around 200 present in a 20,000 capacity, modern styled stadium.

But it’s not every day you see a team from New Caledonia (from the South Pacific) so there was a certain fascination in watching Magenta.
They even had some fans though whether they had all made such a trip was perhaps unlikely.

Within a couple of minutes it was clear there would be no extra time as Vincent scored from 20yds and the home side drove through the visitors defence almost at will.
Further goals followed a regular intervals and the only curiosity was whether Magenta could conjure up a goal.
Some shots , yes and the odd chance but no goals for the sympathetic ‘crowd’ to cheer.

It got colder and I made a brisk exit passing some puzzled Parisiens wondering what was going on in the stadium.
Via the metro and the fast train back to Brussels and then the local train to Denderleeuw.

Dender 2 Leuven 1 in the Belgian 2nd Division.

Another smallish ground, covered, with an unused terrace at one end.
Some 2,000 turned out on this coldish Saturday night, including the Dender ‘ultras’ behind the goal.
Both teams are near the top and battling for promotion.

The goals came in the first half, firstly from a penalty driven home by the Dender goalie followed by a second from their forward Jorgo Waeghe.
Leuven replied soon after when the excellent Harbaoui converted a cross.

Both teams had a man dismissed just before half-time.
And in the second period Leuven pushed their hosts back but failed to create much and Dender held out for the win.

Kortrijk 3 Lierse 1 in the Belgian ‘Premier’.

Its about an hour and a half by train from Brussels to Kortrijk.

I arrived in time to enjoy a late lunchtime meal in one of the many restaurants in the pleasant central area of town. Many others were doing the same.

Later that evening I was amongst the 5,760 who watched a decent match between mid-table Kortrijk and lowly Lierse (just one win all season)
Their, larger, ground is near the river which contributed to making it a very cold night.
Maybe I should have joined the packed end terrace rather than having a seat in the stands.

But the game itself was entertaining with the home side always troubling the visitors with their movement.
Lierse brought a lively few hundred and they saw their team go ahead against the run of play after 23 minutes as the home goalie was beaten to the ball.
Ten minutes later De Beule scored his first and just before half time he beat the offside trap to slot his second.

In the second half Lierse, though limited, were always in with a chance until M’Boyo put in the clincher near the end.

I needed quite a time to warm up.

more pics at http://photobox.co.uk/album/595657140.

Turkey October 2010

2010-11-04T03:38:00.000-07:00

Bursaspor 1 Fenerbahce 1.

Green and white is everywhere in Bursa.
Flags, scarves and on the kerb stones.

The city has vibrant feel to it especially when a big team from Istanbul is in town

I took the ferry from Pendik, quite close to Sabiha Gokcen Istanbul airport, and then a bus, and another to get to the centre.

Along the way small dramas happen.
An elderly lady is ill on the ferry, a young boy is sick on the bus and, later, a cat runs across the pitch during the game.
Perhaps fortunately the cat was not black.

Bursaspor’s ground is centrally located, mainly covered, and it was close to capacity for this big match.
Inside the locals generated a warm welcome for Fenerbahce.

In the game Fenerbahce were better in possession with the orange-heeled boots and educated left foot of Emre prominent.

He would create the opening goal with a one-two and cross converted by Senturk.
Cue some aggression by the home ultras towards the away fans in their ‘cage’. The police soon stepped in.

The unbeaten home side equalised soon after the break, scoring from a corner.

As time progressed Fener continued to look more likely to win but Bursa had two good chances - both spurned by striker Sercan.
He would get a mixed reception when substituted.

So Bursaspor stay top of the Super League as they aim to retain their title.

I strolled back to my hotel via a typical local bar.
All male clientele, live Turkish music and everyone studiously ignoring the large no-smoking sign.

Eskisehirspor 0 Ankaragucu 0.

The bus from Bursa to Eskisehir takes well over 2 hours through valleys and mountainous areas.
Conveniently the stadium and train station are both close to the city centre.

And on this Saturday afternoon another good crowd, of around 15,000, turned out to watch this goalless draw between two mid-table teams.
No away ultras were present.

In an even contest the most interesting aspects (apart from the noise from the local ultras) were the long throws of Varol of Ankaragucu and the efforts of the big home striker, Karadeniz.

With some difficulty I’d eventually managed to get a ticket for the 18.00 train to Ankara which proved ideal timing.
The train, which can reach over 250 km/hour, was in the capital within an hour and a half.

Genclerbirligi 2 Manisaspor 0.

Ankara feels more like a ‘working’ city than Istanbul.
It doesn’t have the famous sites or the tourists, or indeed the hustlers.

But one place not to be missed is Ataturk’s mausoleum and the connected museum.
In it is described the history of modern Turkey and in particular the part played by its exceptional founder.

The 19 May (the date on which Ataturk began his campaign for Independence) Stadium
is easy enough to find being near the main train station and a large park.

Nearby a political rally was taking place.
Not too many from the rally went into the stadium to see the game.
Maybe they supported Ankaragucu, who share the ground.

So the 4,000 or so who did attend made it seem a low key affair.

The Manisaspor ultras did their best but their team, after the first 30 minutes, were second best.

Genclerbirligi scored through the German Calik in the first half and the Bosnian Zec, with a nice 20 yarder, in the second.

I took the metro back to my hotel and had some fısh and chips plus beer whilst watching Besiktas in the Sunday evening game.

No major drama as I was in Ankara when the bomb exploded in Taksim Square.

more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/536814857

Ukraine/Poland October 2010

2010-10-27T01:56:00.001-07:00

Karpaty Lviv 0 Sevilla 1 in the Europa League.

I took the flight to Rzeszow in Poland and then a train to Przemysl followed by a short taxi ride to the border.

You can then walk across to Ukraine and catch a minibus to Lviv.
This takes less than 2 hours for a cost of just over a pound.

On the way, along bumpy roads, we pass some signs of increasing prosperity with newly built houses and road works.

But it is cold. The severe wind chill making it feel even worse.

In the Ukraina stadium, an older, typically open ground with a partly covered main stand, I decided not to sit down and stood at the back to try to keep warm.

It helped that the stadium was full.

Sevilla brought about 30 or so fans presumably well wrapped up in the un-Seville like conditions.
They merged with the locals in the main stand (unlike the Borussia Dortmund fans who ‘merged’ in a different way with the Karpaty ultras)

Karpaty were lively at the start but Sevilla quietened the crowd and Freddy Kanoute was to head in the winner from a corner after about half an hour.
Sevilla generally looked a class above their opponents without being outstanding.

At the end I took a brisk walk back down the hill and a taxi back to the centre.

After beer, borscht and some vodka I had managed to warm up.

Korona Kielce 1 Legia Warsaw 4.

I retraced my route to the border.

This time it was a lot slower returning to Poland due to the large numbers travelling back and forth with their alcohol and cigarettes.
Eventually, and with some help from the locals gently pushing me to the front once they realised I was English, I made it back across.

I’d missed the early train so had some time for a wander around Przemysl in cold but bright weather.

Then it was a train to Krakow and onward to Kielce.

I had time enough to book into the hotel and walk to the modern Kielc Arena for an 8pm kick off.

Its a new, stylish looking stadium that has been used by Poland for some international matches.

And a good crowd (14,479) turned out on this cold night with many queuing outside as kickoff time approached. However, like the trains, there was a delay.

They played the stirring music, the locals raised their red & yellow scarves and sang their song.
And the ultras kept up the noise throughout despite the result.

Legia started well with striker Kucharczyk’s early goal, Korona replied later in the half but then had their goalie dismissed.
Captain Vrdoljak scored from the resulting penalty.

In the second period the visitors kept on top and ran out comfortable winners.

Korona didn’t look like title contenders although they did play with ten men for a large part of the game.

Back at the hotel the vodka was on offer (9zl) so that was hard to resist.

Wisla Krakow 5 Lechia Gdansk 2.

This was a ‘friendly’ match as the respective fans have an amiable ‘partnership’.

The Wisla stadium is expected to be completed next year although delays continue, apparently connected with finance and politics.
Two sides were open and they were well filled.

I’m sure when they pack into four sides it will quite an atmosphere.

After the first twenty minutes of the match you would have expected Lechia to win as they had scored and missed some half chances.

But then Wisla took over scoring five times , including two from the Slovenian Andraz Kim..

Lechia allowed them too much space and paid the penalty.

Back at the hotel I watched some highlights of the other Polish league games.

Zaglebie Lubin 0 Ruch Chorzow 0.

To another newish stadium, this time with orange seats.

The ground was about half full (8,568) with a very noisy contingent from Chorzow.
The home ultras played their part as well.

But the game was generally poor with the teams tending to cancel each other out.

At least the ultras provided good entertainment.

I warmed up by jogging to the bus stop and getting a minibus back to Wroclaw (takes around an hour and a half)

Vodka and crisps to finish.

more pics at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/528328923

Brazil September 2010 part 2

2010-10-20T08:20:00.001-07:00

Figueirense 1 Brasiliense 0 in Serie B.

The first of two games in Florianopolis - this one at the Orlando Scarpelli stadium on the mainland.
For once it was nice to see a game in the daylight.
The home side are challenging for promotion and their opponents battling against going down to Serie C.
Figueirense’s good form ensured a decent turnout of over 8,000 in mild cloudy weather.

They play in a cosy, medium sized ground with apartment blocks nearby.
The seats, mostly uncovered in uneven blocks, are painted in the club colours (green)

The game itself was watchable with Brasiliense starting well but unable to break through.
Urged on by the home fans Figueirense did better in the second period.

The winner came half way the 2nd half - headed in from a corner.

I took the bus back to the island for some sushi and later, alcohol.

Avai 5 Ceara 0.

I was taking the bus from the centre to the Ressacada stadium when some of the fans got quite impatient with the slow boarding (suggestion - get rid of those ridiculous turnstiles in the buses)

One of them kept shouting at the driver, the bus didn’t move, and eventually the driver had had enough. Fortunately a replacement quickly took over and off we went.

Quite a contrast for this second match in Florianopolis as it rained hard and was quite a lot cooler.
Before the match I visited the Avai trophy room, though nothing like Vasco’s, it did have some very interesting old photos and documents from their past.

The ground comprises two similar stands, part covered with uncovered smaller ends. Half the right end and some of the side were occupied by a reasonable number of away fans.

This time the seats were blue and not too many were filled in the main stand as the wind drove in the rain.
So we stood at the back.

To watch the home side cope much better with the surface water and the uncomfortable conditions
Judging by the lush scenery it rains a lot more in Florianopolis than (say) Fortaleza.

The first two goals were partly due to the atrocious condtions , the second resulting in a penalty.
The fans celebrated by singing ´oop avhay´.

The next three goals were all crackers including two great shots by Jeferson, one right, one left footed.
The scoring ended after 57 minutes.

After that Avai were content to hold Ceara and with about 10 miuntes to go the 4,000 crowd had seen enough, happy with the performance and glad to escape the rain.

I joined them on the bus - this time nobody shouted at the driver.

An early night and a reasonable sleep, helped by some earplugs to muffle the sound of the rain beating on the windows (Brazil eh !)

Parana 0 Sport Recife 2 in Serie B.

From Florianopolis to Curitiba, a five hour bus ride.

Parana play at the Estadio Durival Britto (or Vila Capanema), a stadium that was used during the 1950 World Cup.

Though it is reckoned to be able to hold 20,000 that would seem to be quite a tight squeeze.

Nothing like that number (actually 2,346) turned out on this night with maybe 30 or so from distant Recife.
The home ultras wore their trendy looking white jump suits.

Though one of the cooler evenings on this trip at 15 degrees there was little wind & so it did come as a surprise to see the no.9 for Sport wearing gloves.

For the away team, who had been relegated from the top level last season, it was a reasonably comfortable victory.

The first came from a penalty and the second from a free kick after a Parana defender had blocked a forward run (he would get sent off)

The locals voiced their disapproval and offered some advice as the players disappeared down the tunnel at half time.

During the second period Parana had some half chances but generally struggled.

As I’d found it an awkward walk from downtown to the stadium, being hemmed in by the old railway lines, I opted to take a taxi back to my hotel after the match (and also because the game didn’t finish until a quarter to midnight)

Palmeiras 2 Internacional 0 at the Barueri Arena.

And so to Sao Paulo, or rather Barueri and the very modern Arena.

Where Luiz Felipe Scolari’s Palmeiras played against the Copa Libertadores winners.

In Brazil a 7.30pm kickoff seems to be a tricky time as many were queuing outside.
That and having great difficulty getting a taxi in the notorious local traffic meant I missed the first five minutes of this one.

But once inside the atmosphere was excellent with the Palmeiras fans spread out over three stands generating some good noise.
As you would expect there was a much smaller group from Port Alegre, mostly in the lower tier behind the left hand goal.

Though a relatively new stadium it does have very little cover and many got wet during a rain shower.
Two rocket free kicks from Marcos Assuncao decided the outcome in favour of Palmeiras.

Chilean Jorge Valdivia showed some tricky skills for the home side and he was well applauded when substituted near the end.

Inter ended frustrated and well held.

I disappeared into the Barueri night and happened to meet a couple of guys from my hotel on the way out of the ground. So we shared a taxi back to our hotel and I managed a few words of Portuguese.

Portuguesa 6 Parana 1 in Serie B.

I decided to extend my stay in Sao Paulo for a couple of days to take in this game and especially to see Corinthians on the Saturday.

Portuguesa’s Candide stadium is close to the ‘marginal’ the main highway that leads out towards Guarulhos airport. It is also quite close to the main bus station.

It’s a 20,000 capacity ground with a covered main stand and open seats opposite and curved ends. Not that anywhere near 20,000 attended on this Friday night.

The home ultras had their flag turned upside down.
But they had to be happy with this performance.

Their team went 3-0 up after 30 minutes and held that until half time.
Parana did somewhat better in the second period and managed to get a goal back early in the half.

However in the end Portuguesa stopped any comeback with a fourth and then two late efforts
sealed the victory.

Next time the ultras should display their flag the right way up.

With help from a local I negotiated my way back to the Armenia metro and was back in Avenida Paulista for a caipirinha nightcap by 11.45pm.

Corinthians 2 Avai 2.

Thirteenth and last game of this visit to Brazil.

The Pacaembu stadium has the advantage of being walkable from the western end of Avenida Paulista (Sao Paulo’s most famous street)
I did the journey twice having forgot to bring my camera.
Fortunately I initially left early to go the football museum. That was closed, predictable I guess with a game being played, but it gave me enough time to trek up the hill to my hotel and back again.

It was hot and humid.
Despite the sweat I had that big game feeling as I joined the many Corinthian fans making their way to their historic stadium, it being another that staged games at the 1950 World Cup.

For me any inner city ground is just more atmospheric and that certainly applies to the Pacaembu with apartment blocks nearby and the feeling of an ampitheatre.
Especially when packed with over 30,000 fans.

The ultras groups have their areas around the ground although most of the songs were started by the Gavioes section to the left.

Corinthians are the best supported team in the Brasileiro, especially with Flamengo doing poorly this year.
But amazingly they do not currently have the best home support in Brazilian football as that honour to Santa Clara (over 30,000) in Serie D.
It makes you wonder if there are, or have been, any other countries where the top average attendance is from a team in the fourth level ?

Though many fans wore Ronaldo shirts the man himself didn’t play though another hero Roberto Carlos, now 37, and Edu , ex-Arsenal did start.

Ceara did their best to spoil the afternoon as they broke away to make it 1-0 in the first 15 minutes.
Corinthians were struggling and the fans complained about their finishing and it also didn’t help that title rivals Fluminense were winning.

As some light rain fell Ceara went 2-0 ahead following another breakaway.

It seemed like it wouldn’t be Corinthians match but with 20 minutes remaining Paulinho chipped it over the goalie and with Flu now drawing the mood changed as the noise was cranked up.

The equaliser came from Argentinian substitute Defederico - a left footed free kick from the right that eluded everyone including the Ceara goalie.
Though it was a fairly frantic and very noisy last 10 minutes Corinthians coudln’t fashion a winner.
Nevertheless I was glad I had extended my visit to take in a big match at the Pacaembu.

This and the Vasco match were the only games at which I was given a conventional programme (20 pages in the case of Corinthians) though for some of the other matches there were newspaper style ‘journals’.

After the game I strolled back up the hill and later enjoyed a steak and some wine in an Avenida Paulista restaurant.

So I’d been to some new cities in this vast country.
From the beaches and sunshine of Natal and Fortaleza in the north to the rain of Florianopolis in the south.

Along the way you couldn’t avoid the election activity.

And I saw some excellent games in some fascinating stadiums.

more pictures at http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/510221175